probably the single most important part
of your framing is your door framing proper door framing as far as installing the door go much easier I will show you how to do that, Lets get to work. now before you can frame for a door you have to understand door sizes, this door in particular that we are going to be installing today is a two six door. does not mean twenty six inches it means 2ft 6 inches and that is a 30 inch door in you always frame two inches wider than the size of the door to allow for this
door jamb material and to allow for shims for setting the
door same holds true on the height a standard door is 6ft 8 in you always frames six foot ten along side of your opening for the door you’re always going to have two studs the stud here that is 1 1/2 inch away from the opening we call it the king stud and it runs from the base plate all the way up to the bottom of your top plate at the top now this stud here will call it the crippling comes
even with your opening and this is what you you are going to attach your door to and it runs from the bottom plate all
the way up to the bottom of your header which is the top framing for the opening now there’s a reason why you always have
two studs alongside a door opening its because A) It has more strength for holding the
weight of the door B) if you nail these two studs together nice and flat on the face It will also help keep them from twisting or bowing and third reason is is when you had your box, when you put
your door trim on here It will hold your electrical box far enough away that a standard casing will fit. if you’re using a wider than standard
casing you can always add a block to install your box on to give you enough spacing for your trim. The
single most important thing you can do when you’re framing for your door is make sure that this is plumb hold the 4ft level about the center the opening put it against the two side studs and make sure that the bubble is as close to the dead center between those lines as you can get there’s only a limited amount of space
that you are going to have here to shim in behind the door if you have
this leaning too far one way or the other the door will not fit properly once you’re sure that your two sides are
plumb you also have to make sure that your
header is level now sometimes when you’re building on a
basement floor and the floor is running downhill one-side of your jamb may be kicked up higher than the other and make sure that you make any
adjustments that you have to do to make this level prior to hanging drywall. So
there you go you got your width right you got your
height right you have your two side pieces that are nice and flush with each other
that you nailed together strongly you got a level top of plumb sides
You are ready to get some drywall on this frame and this opening will be ready for a door. One
more thing i realized after watching this video that we maybe you need to
know this framing that we did for this wall is for not bearing wall, in other words you’re going to have weight above here a
roof load or floor load you’d have to consult an engineer to find out what size header you will need prior to building the wall yea that that was pretty it, Owww I forgot wait a second! in case you like this video we have
some other stuff coming out you’ll be the first one to see it if you just hit the Subscribe button its over here some where. THANKS! there’s no more


  1. In construction there seems to be alot of ways to say the same thing. In vocational school my teacher always called the jack stud a cripple, just the way I was taught. Please feel free to let me know if the way I say things could be lost through interpretation. Thanks for watching. Bob

  2. I'm not a builder, so I should probably not even post this but I've always heard the terms "sole plate" and "top plate" instead of the term "base plate". Just an observation. Nice videos. Thank you for making them as I have to hang an exterior door pretty soon.

  3. Hey Nolan, you sound like one of those guys who knows everything and loves to to tell other people what they are doing wrong. Just an observation:)

  4. Just to let you know I appeciate your comment but when you put information out there for public consumption you have to expect criticism.I have the option to allow comments or refuse them,in this case he makes valid points.I learned something so I consider this a good comment.I cannot be too thin skinned and still plan on doing this in the future. P.S Did you like the video?— Thanks Bob

  5. hey bob great explanation and video…wanted to put my two cents in on the replies you've received over terminology.i have been researching door framing and have found that some terms are interchangeable,regional,or assumed understood.
    P.S…Hey Nolan, where is your video?

  6. GREAT VIDEO BOB! Hey, I am framing my 3rd car garage at the moment and am using steel studs. Do you have anything that would help me with that? Thanks again.


  7. great video- when he said frame the door 2 inches wider than the actual door does that mean each side or the 30 inch door is framed at 32 inches.

  8. A 30 inch door would be framed at 32 inches total in framing width.===Bob This allows 1 1/2 inches for the door jamb and 1/2 inch for shimming.

  9. We usually frame drops in and put drywall on them and then run drop ceiling flat.Not saying this is a better way to do it just the way,just seems to make a nice clean finish+++Bob

  10. Hi Sam,You make a couple good points there but only so much can go into one short video.That is why I have already made a video about tips for building straight walls where I covered your concerns.I also made a video about how I like to plumb walls which is also important with hanging doors.Please check them out and let BOB know what you think+++Bob

  11. Personally, I find cripples on non-bearing doors to be a huge waste of time. A faster, better way is to simply nail full length studs together, then nail in the fill blocks, then the header. MUCH faster and less waste of material and time.

  12. From a bearing point of view I see your point ,however the less and less time our lumber stays in the kiln to dry to keep costs down lets the studs have more of a tendency to warp and twist even after installed. I believe cross nailing header 2×4 may assist in keeping door where you put it. Thanks +++Bob

  13. I framed 80 in. high and 34 wide for a pre hung 32in. door, my framing wound up an inch and a half too wide and an inch and a half too low, and yes its a 32 inch door. What went wrong?

  14. If your door is actually a standard door and it measures 32 inches, then you have approx. 1 1/2 inches of door jamb material, that would add up to 33 1/2 inches overall door and jamb width . Allowing for approximately 1/2 inch clearance to fit door into a 34 inch wide framed opening.

  15. What should I do about a 25+3/4" door? I don't know what the people who built my house were smoking but it was too much. Door is 29+3/4"Wx79+1/3"L. Yeah, I measured that right, I've been looking at this door for two days trying to avoid having to actually re-frame the entire thing. Is that my only option?

  16. @clarson0420

    I have same problem, I just cut the door down to 29 3/4 with skil saw

    The rest of them I'm going to frame in all new, everyone says it is much easier

  17. Good job Mate.

    Can i ask a question…

    If i was building a floor to ceiling closet (attached to an external load bearing wall, but not actually built into the wall) with double front floor to ceiling doors, would i use the same framing technique for the front of the closet?

    Cheers. 🙂

  18. A door in my basement opened into the laundry room, not a lot of space. I reversed this door, because it was right up against the water heater, didn't seem good. I found that this also gave a lot more space there to move around. Somehow, I got the door to stay open in the hallway automatically, maybe 1" away from the wall. Would be nice if it were closer to the wall. I want to do this for the bathroom door down there now. What's the science of getting the angle of the shims right to do this?

  19. You talk about making the king and cripple studs for door plumb. How do you go about that if you ar constructing the wall section on the floor, ie to be put up all at once?

  20. @slhender1 Make sure it is good "by the numbers" before you raise wall then check again after wall is up and set then doublecheck door frame and adjust if needed.+++Bob Better to make the extra attempt to make plumb as possible now than later after electric and drywall.

  21. Bob, you need to put a little light on the subject man. Hard to see what you're talking about. Most all of your video's are dark.

  22. @John100657 I could be wrong but usually the high rises I have worked in have metal framing over the concrete and the interior walls are generally metal stud framing. You may want to talk to your building super and ask if there are any units being worked on that you could go in and lay your eyes on and get a better idea what you are dealing with. Get back with me and let me know what you find out+++Bob

  23. @HomeRemodelWorkshop In one instance I worked on a high rise unit that the interior walls were 2 inches thick and only had a top and bottom track the balance of the entire wall was drywall panels only.+++Bob

  24. Hey Bob! We are building a Ple Barn with a walk through exterior door. Will you please refresh our memories about how to do this…We havent even cut it out yet. We just cant remember. Thanks

  25. @blgeorgio Unlike an interior door an exterior door requires a bearing header (this means it supports the weight above the door} The size of this header depends upon the width of the door and the amount of weight it needs to transfer to each side of the door. A pie barn huh. sounds like a place I would love to visit, after lunch maybe? +++Bob

  26. Ok ya got me LOL Pole Barn. So we're going to have a 36" door on one side of it and a hand built "horse half and half door. On the 36" we cut it at 38?.. On the half and half we want it 4ft wide and 6ft tall and it is going to be split at 3ft high. Does this one need a header also

  27. At 1:28 you said "A for holding the weight of the door." Could you explain how this weight is transmitted, and to where it is transmitted. Also, I was wondering, since you have two inches of clearance between the top of the door and the bottom of the "header", then what difference would it make if it was a little out of level.

  28. @OK55OK55OK The weight of the door is transmitted through the hinge and to the anchoring points the door is attached to the side framing then to the side framing itself and to the floor. A little out of level is fine I have worked in some older homes where if you set the top framing by measuring up both sides from the floor the door would not fit.+++Bob If you kept adding weight to the door untill it gave way the top hinge would fail first that is where the majority of the stress (load) is.

  29. @MFRoosy16 If you have the room to properly store the doors during building/remodeling then it is fine. Most projects I work on doors ,trim, cabinets, appliances will not be delivered until needed for installation+++Bob

  30. Bob – I have seen some other videos and other people talking about double vertical headers. Is there a reason to do those or to not do those? P.S. Great videos! I am a subscriber

  31. @aoeah2003 If you were going with a larger span say a double door or if the wall is particularly high and the weight of the wall framing and drywall itself weighed a bit I would consider using a double with 1/2 ply between. +++Bob Thanks for watching!

  32. Door frame too tight, no shims needed other than at the header. It's a prehung double door, or interior french doors. got a nice close center gap at the top, but about a 16th of an inch overlap at the bottom. how should I correct this? plane the doors? or remove the door jamb and remove material from the door frame?

  33. @pc12net07 Depends on who teaches you as to the name. There are many building parts that are given different names dependent upon where you live with huge differences in other English speaking countries+++Bob

  34. hi, thanks so much for this video! I am trying to install a set of French doors, frame, side panels and all. Since this is my first attempt, I was wondering if you could guide me on the following point: how does framing/measurement for a set of french doors differ from that in your video?


  35. @b0pN2 Two times door panel size plus 2-21/4 inches, on a standard size door height 6'-10" framing opening, pretty much same as single door with the additional door width added in,+++Bob

  36. I see you are framing the height based off the plywood floor. Is the additional 2 inches in height meant to take up whatever type flooring you put down as well as shimming? If you were putting down carpet or hardwood or tile, etc. are there any calculations one should use? Thank you.

  37. @mrstephenrobb Usually the floor is installed after doors are hung, however the dimensions I gave will work pre or post floor+++Bob

  38. here in Michigan skirtboards go along stairways, and the 2×4 along the door stud is called a lap. i suppose it could also be considered a cripple, but that's a term i usually use for the shorter 2xs under windows.

  39. The stud that supports the header is actually called a "jack" stud. The cripple studs are under windows or above headers.

  40. How do you go about attaching your bottom floor joist to concrete, like on the bottom level? Is there a foam liner or anything else between your joist and the concrete?

  41. I have a video called "Wall plate to concrete the start to building basement walls" and the answer is no to anything between treated bottom plate and floor. +++Bob

  42. When teaching new guys how to determine the proper width to frame a door opening I always tell them it's as simple as 1,2,3. 1- the actual door width. 2- add 2" to number 1 that's your rough opening width. 3.- add 3" to number 2 this is your header length. This way our cut man can make up our headers ahead of time without having to wait until we frame each opening. This works for bearing and non bearing walls and helps new guys begin to understand how a wall goes together.

  43. When accounting for the 2 additional inches, are you including 2 inches on each side or 1 inch on each side? For example, if you go with the prior, it would be a total of 4 additional inches (2 on each side) vertically.

    Thank you,

  44. I have a question if you can answer in detail, how would i make a frame for a door for a (none prehung door) so standard, would i make the frame 4mm wider for 10mm higher for the 2mm gap all around and to allow for flooring any advice? thanks alot

  45. You are not re-inventing the wheel here, if it is a standard size door simply find a frame with the same size door hanging in it and measure it and build a match. +++Bob

  46. Generally speaking all framing can be done at that standard, however in a closet sometime I add additional studs on the sides to make sure I have plenty of anchoring points for shelf cleats and carry loads of closet rods.+++Bob

  47. The studs are the 2×4's. The middle or center of the 2×4 is exactly 16" apart. This is so 4×8 foot plywood or drywall will fit exactly. It is also building code everywhere. Studs can be closer for special purposes but generally speaking you build everything 16" on center.

  48. Nice video. Is it also standard code to install a center stud above a closet door? I have a crappy stud finder and want to find where best to anchor my pull up bar. I'm securing between my bathroom door and my closet door on top of the trim. Thx!

  49. Great quality on this video, felt like I was there myself. your cat is very cool to

    Thanks for sharing Be safe and enjoy the ride!!

  50. Best how-to I have ever watched. Good quality video, good instruction, saved all the bs til the end instead of putting it up front. Subscribed. keep it up.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *