Box Pleated Designer Frock Cutting And Stitching – Tailoring With Usha

Box Pleated Designer Frock Cutting And Stitching – Tailoring With Usha

hello friends, today m going to teach you cutting and stitching of box pleated designer frock the measurement is like this bodice length 19 inch shoulder to shoulder length 13 inch shoulder length 7 inch chest 34 inch waist length 13 inch waist 27 inch hips length 19 inch hips 33 inch total length of frock 37 inch so we minus bodice length from total length of frock i.e 37-19=18 inch, this is our bottom part length length of sleeves 4 inch half circumference of sleeves 5.5 inch first of all do cutting of required length of bodice i.e 19+1=20 inch, mark it and cut it, this is 2.5 mts cloth (for adult frock) fold the cut piece in 4 layers, in this we can insert designer loops or zip so we are inserting back strip mark shoulder length i.e 7 inch and waist length +0.5 inch i.e 13+0.5=13.5 inch and hips length is 19, mark at 19+1=20 inch from folded upper part width wise, take half of shoulder to shoulder length +0.5 inch i.e 13/2+0.5=7 inch, mark it on shoulder length take half inch cross inner side, mark it and join these two marks to upper mark again from shoulder length, take 1/4 of chest + 2 inch, i.e 34/4 is 8.5 +2=10.5, mark at 8.5 and 10.5 inch now waist length width wise, mark 1/4 of waist + 2 inch i.e 27/4 is 6.75 +2=8.75, mark at 6.75 and 8.75 and join’em to chest mark resp. now come at hips(total length of bodice), hips are 33 take 1/4 of 33=8.25+2 inch=10.25, mark at 8.25 and 10.25 join hips length marks to waist length mark resp. by hand in little curve manner from the bottom of bodice hip marks take 1 inch(for kids) and 1.5 inch(for adults) above and make a slant line(a little bit curve) to other end of bodice and now do the curving of back sleeve and deep curving of front sleeve now at top mark half of neck width i.e 6/2=3 inch and take half inch downwards on shoulder and join it slant manner in front neck will be made from bookrum and in back we will insert loop with button or zip, so don’t cut neck part cutting is done like this separate the back piece and now do deep cutting of front sleeve, this is our bodice cutting this is the remaining cloth and from which we will make gher(bottom circumference) and from this net i’ll make a design this net is about 40 inch in width & 18 inch in length, cut it in three piece for design total gher(circumference) is 59 inch (40+19), mark it and cut it then separate upper and lower part as this piece is double folded when we insert box pleats then i’ll teach you how to stitch it from remaining cloth make belt for frock, fold it in 4 layers about 3 inch in length from closed side take 2 inch(0.5 inch is for sewing seam) & take from other open side take 1.5 inch mark width wise and join two marks and join from width mark to closed side mark and this is our belt for both sides after cutting separate both side belt via cutting from the centre from remaining cloth take length +2 inch for sleeves i.e 4+2=6 inch and in width take shoulder length +2 inch i.e 7+2=9 inch from open side lengthwise mark 2.5 to 4 inch for curving, m taking 2.75 inch and do curving joining upper closed part from other closed side take half of arm hole width + 1 inch i.e 5.5+1=6.5, mark it and join it to end of curve mark 1.5 inch on curve and take the centre of remaining curve mark it and take 0.75 inch lengthwise to inner side and do the curving, it comes out to be a shape of leaf first cut the outer marked lines and then open it in 2 layers and cut leaf shaped curve for front sleeve i’ve already taught you neck cutting and pasting so i did it already, in back portion we insert zip before sewing zip we have to insert box pleats in lower part of frock bcoz i insert zip beyond hip length at first insert pleats on front bodice part, for doing so fold it and from closed part 3-3.5 inch in width, m taking 3.5 inch mark it mark waist length +0.5 inch i.e 13+0.5=13.5 and join it in a straight line to bottom, this will be our pleat at one side this pleats are insert on the back part like this also and also in the back part of bodice this is our net and we have take it in middle of lower part of frock and make a design take frock length+2 inch(sewing seam) i.e 10+2=12 inch mark a straight line and cut it and after cutting we insert the net design and after that we sew the remaining cloth by folding it and we also sew lining under this cloth place the cut piece on the lining cloth and cut it alongside and after this i’ll teach you how to sew net this is upper part of frock bottom and this is net match right side of both and then place lining cloth above it and sew the three pieces in a straight line after this sewing i’ll proceed further after sewing separate the net cloth like this and do press stitching we follow the same procedure for the last bottom part, matching right side of both cloth and net and place lining cloth under it and sew it straight then fold it and do the press stitching and this is done at both front and back part of frock bottom after this i’ll proceed further after the stitching mark the centre of back circumference(gher) and insert box pleat like this leaving 1-1.5 inch at centre for zip sewing first i’ll mark 2-2 inch mark and after that i’l insert the box pleats like this this should be equal to half of hips from the centre plus 0.5 inch for sewing seam on both sides i.e 33/2=16.5+1=17.5 inch (total) after inserting box pleats i’l proceed further and at bodice part 1 inch pleats/darts are inserted by stitching the mark lines for darts and gradually decreasing it while going to top these pleats are inserted in four number (2 in front and 2 in back) of bodice, after this i’ll proceed further these are box pleats in front lower part and these are in back part and i’ve to insert zip in back part so i left 1 inch gap here there is no gap at centre in front part, now matching right to right and centre to centre sew bodice and lower part of frock and after sewing open it to right side and do press stitching after doing this i’ll teach you how to sew zip first cut the back neck and centre of bodice till 1.5 inch downwards bodice bottom and do temporary sewing after that, cut two 3 inch straight strips and sew zip straight leaving 0.5 inch from folded inner side and after sewing cut extra cloth from open side after doing first sewing, fold the other straight strip and place it on zip(other side) and by feeling it by your hand sew it hiding the whole zip first i’ll sew this first stitching and i’ll teach you further this is straight strip and i marked 0.5 inch straight line and now place zip on line and sew it with zipper foot benefit of zipper foot is that the sewing can be done very near to the teeth of zip the sewing is like this after sewing this we will fold the cloth back side so that it do not come in the next sewing and place the other folded strip on other part of zip and by feeling the teeth of zip sew it taking 0.5 inch extra cloth to hide the zip after this i’ll teach you how to sew it with the frock this is our over lapped zip, if you close it, it hides beneath the cloth like this for stitching place the zip under the back part and do sewing by folding the frock part on it do this sewing on the zip strip sewing line do the same on the other side, fold it and sew it on the zip strip sewing line, this will be our lapped zip i’ll show you the sewing of it on one side i pin up the zip like this, now i open the zip to show you and now from bottom i’ll sew firmly first and sew gradually till upper part removing the pins while stitching fold the extra cloth of strip to the wrong side like this so that it doesn’t come in sewing of other side of strip now fold the bottom cloth half inch like this so that the cut is hidden and sew it firmly and after this i’ll fold it and pin up it other side of zip and sew it straight(sewing is done on previous stitching) make sure that there is no bulge while stitching after doing this i’ll proceed further stitching is done like this this is our lapped zip stitching after zip sewing, cut the extra cloth and do zig-zag stitching on wrong side of zip strip cloth so that threads don’t come out the sew back and front shoulder of frock matching right side of both

23 thoughts on “Box Pleated Designer Frock Cutting And Stitching – Tailoring With Usha

  1. mam i wash all ov your videos …your work is great…i want to ask u ..mere machine ke shitle ke taraf se bht dhage (threads) aa rahe hain

  2. oh great this is really so nyc…this is the video that I have requested to u thanx for showing so much attention to ur viewers n teaching them very well thanx alot ♡♡♡
    I have already made this dress becoz u posted it late anway thanku so much 🙂
    keep it up 😉

  3. mam it's amazing I love this dress would you help me iske chun kaise bhare jayenge Maine try Kia but nhi hua so pleaeaeaeaeaese

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