Can These Unusual Interior Mods Actually Improve Handling?

Can These Unusual Interior Mods Actually Improve Handling?


welcome back to garage time where I
share tips and tricks on how to restomod a junked Porsche 911 this week I’m going
to continue sort of chipping away at that welding to-do list so let’s get
right to it I just got back from the eye doctor and
my eyes are completely dilated maybe it’s not the best day to be doing
welding and I actually can’t see that well at the moment but I’m going to be
doing some cutting and planning and then hopefully my eyes will be better later
in the day so I can get some work done good news is I can still see but I will
need glasses for nighttime driving Oh well last week I made this template for
a B pillar gusset and this is not for looks this is really to increase the
stiffness of the whole car so the chassis is tied to the roll bar the
solid roof all this is going to make this chassis stiffer here’s what the
opening looks like between the B pillar and the roll bar and what I’ve been
debating or did last week at least is should I make the template so it’s kind
of tangent with the bar so it comes out here to meet the bar or do I use it even
smaller gusset and try to keep it so it’s kind of perpendicular to the bar so
what I’ll probably end up doing is a little bit of both gonna also involve a
twist because at the top the B pillar is behind the roll bar and then at the
bottom the B pillar is forward of the roll bar this retyped it in I’m trying
to highlight the twist so if you see how its fits on the top versus how it fits
on the bottom it’s got it it’s got a twist to it I’m using 14 gauge metal for
this because this is heavy gauge or pretty thick I’m gonna use my plasma
cutter to cut this out I’m wearing my welding helmet here so I
don’t hurt my eyes can’t really see that well I’m going to be ambitious and cut out
the other side too this is quite a bit oversized I’m just
going to clean up the edges with my bench grinder if this piece has been
roughed out you can see it does have a slight twist in it so now it’s just an
iterative process of using my hand grinder to get these profiles to made up
exactly where they can be welded in place but I don’t think I need to see it
anymore so I’m going to take that out before I put holes in it it’s hard to hold it with just tape
alone but this is trimmed now to fit its best kind of average fit some of those
gaps will go away when I force it into position and you know weld it in but I’m
gonna start laying out the holes speed holes and see how that looks another
important thing to consider is this is the factory seatbelt hole and it cannot
be obscured because I am gonna run the factory belts too so I don’t want to put
a speed hole right here for instance because there’s a d-ring here that needs
to clear I’m just trying to figure out the hole spacing that I want to punch in
these gussets so they use the same dimpled eye that I used for the strut
tower braces that’s what these look like this spacing here is about I think it’s
an inch and a inch and 1/8 we’ve got one two three four five six holes here I
could potentially do more holes in this but I’m thinking about increasing the
spacing just a little bit because it’s a longer part this s represents the seat
belt attachment point so I need to avoid that so if I did every two inches let’s
see what that would look like that gives me one two three four five
six holes again but further spaced out also if you guys aren’t aware these are
available for purchase eighty bucks you can find them on eBay this is the front
strut tower brace with the additional tabs on the bottom that allows you to
create an X design for higher torsional rigidity you okay I’m just working down here on the
floor because I don’t feel like lifting this up on the bench
but this press brake works with these dyes they just even this goes right
through the hole this has a dimple on the other side I’d these these dyes are
homemade I made them at that workshop so just open it up and squeeze it I almost did that backwards so the s is
where the seatbelt hole is and I want the dimples to go this way so I need to
change directions it’s a good thing I caught that okay it definitely dimpled like the dye
always does but because there’s no flanges on this thing and the dimple is
so close to the edge it actually pulled the metal in and created you know a
smile out of this I’m gonna have to go back to the table and just hammer this
thing flat again we put the twist back in it I probably could have put the
holes in first if I had a template that I knew work that I knew the hole
positions I could have put the holes in prior to cutting it out that would have
avoided a bunch of distortion but I think I can just salvage this by some
hammer and Dolly on it the speed holes are for appearance but it does provide
extra rigidity so now I need to take it back to the car and then re-add the
twist okay guys let me know you think if I
squeeze it in there all the gaps go to about zero which is perfect for welding
so you can see it’s it just needs to be pushed and welded okay I’ve trimmed the
other side and marked or copied the holes from this part to the passenger
side it’s too early to weld it in right now one because I need to check the
seatbelt fit and two I’m not finished working on the rear of the car so the
last thing I want to do is weld the rollbar in that’s after I’ve had a
chance to clean and prep for pain and make it easier on myself so even though
it’s tempting to just you know burn these in I don’t want to do it too soon
but it is helpful to have them made and you know cross it off the list and I
mentioned the seat belts before and I just installed them these are the
factory seat belts and this is that d-ring I was talking about it has full
mobility and then lower this recoil piece it does clear the roll bar these
factory seat belts just came in the mail just in the nick of time I’ll take it
I got lucky again while I’m feeling lucky I should really tackle this
problem area right here so these camber boxes were added for
some more suspension adjustability and I’m really glad they’re here but I can’t
have this hole here either that was all cut so I can get the welding done from
the top side now the issue is filling up the hole but another issue is you can
barely see the trailing arm right here it is almost contacting the seat pan and
I haven’t even moved it up to the highest hole yet I’ll only be able to
use the highest hole if I change the outer pivot points as well which is
something it’s a bolt-on modification later but in order to make this system
work as it’s designed I need to clearance a little bit more back here
because the trailing arm goes directly underneath this circle piece and I want
to have full adjustability and I don’t want this bashing into the car the
minute I hit a bump so a little more cutting is required here so I really
need to fill up all this area so there’s no
air exchange coming from the engine compartment into the cabin all right I
peeled up that little tab there so I can see the trailing arm just below it so
now I need to come up with a strategy on you know preventing that trailing arm
from contacting the seed pans here’s the game plan I have this piece
fit around the camber box and I’m gonna clean it up and just tack weld it in a
few places that’s gonna solve this hole and then for the clearancing on the
trailing arm which is directly beneath this little flap here I am going to cut
all the way across the top of this blue line and then across the inside of this
blue line here and make a plate that welds on to the camber box it’s like a
shelf all the way across here and then forms down along this edge here it’ll
form down on this edge so it’ll come here down and then I have a corner right
here so it’ll be a shelf with a corner this piece is now secured in really well
I got several tax all the way around the perimeter so it’s as far as I can take
it right now I need to get to the backside to hammer this one a little bit
this shrunk so much that this is now overlapping which it didn’t used to do
that so I need to stretch this weld right here so that this can all get back
into position close up that gap so now I’m going to switch my attention to
cutting along these blue lines and really opening up a whole new hole even
bigger than the original one just so that these trailing arms aren’t going to
bounce into it it’s likely that other parts are gonna interfere before the
trailing arm would get this high but I’m not taking any second chances I don’t
have the transaxle in I’m not gonna be adding it in just to do some
measurements with the drive shafts half-shafts trying to measure where
those are I’m just going to make the clearance here and never have to worry
about it again okay here’s the concept that I want to
try to pull off I think this is easier than trying to make a mound around this
mouth here so just kind of continuing this camber box all the way into the
seat pan and allowing clearance for the trailing arm and only doing it in one
Bend to me this is kind of the best of both worlds I’m not giving up any
interior space I still have a problem here with this bolt hole I don’t know if
you can see if I push down that’s the very top of the hole right there
and if I want to use this hole I’m gonna have a real difficult time getting that
bolt in place so what I’ll do once all this gets welded in is I’ll come back
with the saw and I’ll cut a little rectangle here and then I’ll have a
cylinder half cylinder go over the top of that so that bolt has a little place
to get to get out and get in this is the strengthening bar this is just a mock-up
bar I’m gonna use something a little bit bigger
probably one inch diameter do em tubing and it does terminate up here against
the shock tour it’s so this is another method of tying in the suspension to the
cage if you like speed holes don’t forget these strut tower braces are
available for the front and you can find them on eBay or just send me an email
and I’ll make sure you get a pair there $80 also check us out on Instagram
Facebook our garages time and all these videos check out patreon it helps a lot
appreciate it guys next week we’ll continue getting this rear seat area
done and hopefully get it prepped for paint
fingers crossed take care of guys


8 thoughts on “Can These Unusual Interior Mods Actually Improve Handling?

  1. Seatbelts mounted wrong! The D ring you attached on the B pillar goes at the end of the belt by the bottom of the seat in the sill.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *