Circuit boards with lights in epoxy in a table

Circuit boards with lights in epoxy in a table


Circuit board table in 10 steps Step 1 The Idea. putting boards like these in epoxy in a table ..but.. .. what table? at last I found this table online the modern steel legs will go well with the boards Step 2 Preparation. the wood of the old table was discolored and the steel was dirty so with paint stripper I removed old layers of varnish (I used a scrape card for that) and I cleaned the steel the backs of the boards had to be really flat first I tried to remove components with a soldering iron but the fastest way was with pliers Step 3 Making room. mmm.. how would I be putting the boards in? I mean, in what shape? I chose the simple strip shape I cut that shape to depth with the saw .. to about 25 mm I took out a 25 x 4 grid with the router the remaining blocks, I chiseled out big pieces with the grain of the wood the rest sideways and after cleaning it was ready for.. Step 4 Putting the boards in. I didn’t want to see any wood in the small spaces next to the boards so I put in this aluminium tape then it was just a puzzle here and there I had to .. .. force a board down with a screw because the middle name of my workshop .. .. is ‘dust’ .. I figured I had to make a tent before pouring epoxy Step 5 Making a tent. nothing fancy, just two tent-shaped ends connected by wood on the sides strips .. .. covered with garbage bags some boards were still loose for the following step they needed to be fixed so this was the first pour with epoxy last chance to position the boards Step 7 Putting in the LEDs (that are no longer LEDs 🙂 I wanted lights to light up but without electricity .. no cables or batteries .. nah .. so I thought of fiber optic cable and I took a normal LED drilled a hole in the bottom broke off the wires .. and stuck a fiber cable in then I drilled holes in the boards and stuck the (glued) fibers in this block with a hole .. is the focal point for the fiber cables I pulled the fibers through .. .. glued them in .. .. and cut them off funny: you can see the colors of the LEDs just to make sure .. I poured in the LEDs so far, so good .. on to .. Step 8 The Big Pour. witness .. the pouring of .. 7 liters epoxy the epoxy revealed .. the table is bent in the middle so I had to pour extra at the sides Step 9 Sanding don’t ask me why .. .. but I recorded all of the sanding so now I know .. .. it took me a total of 2.5 hours with 60, 100, 180 and 320 grit Step 10 Finish the original plan was .. .. to sand and polish the epoxy instead I decided to pour an extra layer I’ll explain later why I sanded the wood one last time and gave it some coats of Danish Oil>The End Result Epilogue So? Success or Fail? well, opposite of what you might think after watching this video the table was a fail What? Why? Somewhere in the process, and I’m not exactly sure where, the epoxy got not mixed well enough. That resulted in sticky soft spots and very ugly spots wait, let me show you Couldn’t it be repaired? that’s why I tried to put another layer over it all – what you just saw in the ‘finish’-part of the video but that didn’t help at all there were so many soft spots at the sides, that the sticky epoxy kept crawling up and out so not only were there ugly spots IN the epoxy, the table being permanently sticky, made it as good as useless Bummer! Yeah, I was quite upset by this, because 95 percent of the epoxy is fine and it is very nice to look at the many details of the circuit boards and to play with the lights What now? well, I guess I have to take my loss and see it as a learning thing What will you do with the table? I’m not sure yet. I’ll keep it for now and think about it. really getting it right would mean to make an extra groove at the sides, between the wood and the epoxy, with a router or a saw and chisel the failed epoxy out that would be a lot of work, so .. I guess I’ll sleep on it for a while Although the table might not be a complete success, just maybe you learned something of the video, or maybe you found the video entertaining. If you liked the video (not the table) please like the video and subscribe to the channel. See you in our next video!


100 thoughts on “Circuit boards with lights in epoxy in a table

  1. Suggestion: Remove the core of the table, replace with either brushed aluminum/stainless, or diamond-plate steel (rout slightly deeper than the thickness of the metal, to allow for…), then throw a thin coat (two or three mm) of epoxy over top to finish. Table salvaged, and still ballsy, although without the full compliment of ultimate nerdologicalisms inherent in the original concept.

  2. Glass top won't help, you will eventually see the wet epoxy between the wood and the glass. Try putting it in direct sunlight for a few weeks.

  3. the end result being bad is because the epoxy needed to be heated with a torch, mixed properly, and seal the wood, there is a lot of air in wood that goes into the epoxy once it is poured.

  4. Very cool video. IMPORTANT TIP: Epoxy will yellow from any amount of UV over time, even "UV resistant" epoxies. The UV from fluorescent lights is more than enough to yellow any epoxy. If this matters to you, use a Polyurethane or Polyaspartic top coat to prevent this from happening – sort of like that last brushed on coat you did. In addition to these coats being UV resistant, they are more durable than epoxy. Also, I think pouring as 1 monolithic coat would prevent the issues you had. I don't think those issues were purely from not mixing enough. Epoxy has a very set time between re-coatings, if you go beyond that, trying to do another coat will fail.

  5. Why don't you just pour a coat of expoxy over the whole table. Sealed no more leak. Still get to use and admire your work. If you don't like it after you can sell it and make a new one for your home. Not a loss just a detour.

  6. I think you put Plexiglas on over the epoxy to make table usable . Since there are sticky spots making it usable.

  7. Cover the top with a hardened glass plate if it's sticky 🙂 As far as to some blurry parts. . . . WHO CARES?! It's a great table!!

  8. My opinion is.. in my experience. Better you use different container or just use large container when applying an epoxy. Because when you repeated in same container. You will not get same amount of volume as it 1st attempt.. soo.. as it results it got very disappointing at end of progress.

  9. What about covering the whole table with a glass top? Oops… I should have read the comments. This is redundant. Still think it's a good idea. Great job on the table, by the way.

  10. Great idea and I like the fact that you used a reclaimed dated table and gave it a new fantastic look. It's a shame after all that work you had some failures but I think putting the glass cover on it that has been suggested seems a good idea – perhaps painting it with a layer of epoxy and then putting the glass on top of the freshly painted epoxy may help stop the creeping of the epoxy that did not harden ? I don't know , just a thought.. Good luck.

  11. This is just my opinion, but why don't you put a wood trim border around the whole circuit board. If there is still sticky patches all over…perhaps put an entire piece of glass on top of the circuit board? Hope this helps.

  12. No it is not a fail ! It is how we learn , The premise is great and the finished product unique . Viewed from above it has the look of a fine textile , the juxtaposition of wam earthy wood with high tech modernity is artistic genius. When you do the next one or repair this one put in more lights of many different colors that operate on a small battery source that way you can at the click of a switch have the lights go on and off throughout the entire piece as though the entire unit was a functional piece of hardware working on a very complex problem like world peace. Please don't be discouraged it is a wonderful piece. Wishing you only the best !!!

  13. Forst question is how many litters of epoxy total and how much did it cost. Second, Wy not use several different colors of LED and then build a simple 40`7 and 555 driven sequenc er to have the lights flassking randomly all over the table? Third, can you not use a low speed mixer blade to get a more uniform mix?

  14. What was the reason that some resin did not cure but that most of it was fine? Maybe waited too long before pooring? Or not mixed well enough? Maybe both?

  15. I'm gonna be thinking about that dual socket mobo all day now… Do you remember what socket that is or what it came out of? Also did you use a battery light or so to make the LEDs light up sporadically?

  16. shame it failed because it looked good, I was thinking them Capacitors could leak or worst exspand even explode maybe pop. I wonder what the cost was,

  17. Regardless if it is a fail or not epoxy work is unpredictable even if you may think that you mix epoxy correctly you may have some serious issues that you don't know until the very end.

  18. And out of all honesty I watch this video and enjoyed every single minute of it and even though it may be a failure it's still is something so amazing it gave me inspiration to try something of my own regardless if I fail or succeed I still want to try something very similar but more so with lights than actual circuit board but that still has a great inspiration and ultimately it looks really beautiful even though there are some spots that may be what you would call ugly from a distance that looks amazing and like I said for the most part that table looks great miniscule little spots won't change my mind I think it's a wonderful thing and you have inspired me

  19. i just came up with this off the top of my head, so take it as you will***I suppose you could do that with a chisel and hammer and that is a way to go but there is another way, you could cut the rest of it out, that is to say that you could drill a hole in the edge of the epoxy region big enough for a jig saw and cut out the center of the table, that way you have a hole in the center of the table to fill. then sand down the edges to a smoothness and take measurements.***************now you will need to decide if you want to add an inlay with a teak or some sort of a stain to blend in with the table, this will allow the edge of the resin to be hidden instead of having it out in the open.****************make a box the same size as those measurements and lay out the circuit boards again, there is no shortage of computer junk, and this time do it in one BIG pour about 10 liters, i am guessing, inside the box, this time you might want to get one of those industrial mixers, the kind you put on the end of a drill and a brand new garbage can from the hardware store to mix it in, you will need help lifting and pouring it, make sure everything is in position you won't get a second chance to re do it, then pour the resin, in the box, and the box can be slipped in to the hole in the table.**********************turn the table over and coat the bottom of the table with more resin, this will help hold the box in and no extra hardware SHOULD be needed.

  20. Try to treat it to some UV light for many hours (send it on a charter vacation to Mallorca) and I think that could cure the poured epoxy completely.You probably have sold that heavy piece of a conversation starter by now, but if not, it might be worth keeping it for a couple of hundred years and it will be worth a lot.

  21. CHEAP SOLAR PANEL CONNECTED DIRECTLY TO LEDs WOULD DO THE MAGIC,DIFFERENT COLOURED PCBS (MOTHERBOARDS) MAY ADD MORE VIBRANCE

  22. Let is set as much as possible – Cut the table to desired shape and hang it on the wall – Would look Nice! Great Attempt!

  23. An interesting build and entertaining to watch. I have a suggestion about the fiber optic lights. You could easily put a battery powered small motor under the tabletop, to which you attach a small disc with various sized circles, arcs, and other shapes cut into it, and shine a light source through the disc at the fiber optic cable ends. This would introduce a semi-random element or patterned 'movement' of the lights on the surface.

    You might do another table, this time assuring yourself of table being level. Add more lights than the current model, do the electric motor and pierced wheel arrangement, but add more discs with gearing to make each disc run at different speeds, adding more 'randomness' to the light patterns.

    Just a few thoughts,

    speaking, Frank-ly

  24. You could put a layer of plexi glas over it, so the surface, would be plexi glas, but you still could see all the details, besause its clear

  25. Not a total fail. A piece of plate glass on top to seal the whole thing will let you use it still. IMO, you put down too much epoxy in a single pour. several thin layers let you confirm all is well. Deep pours, in my experience, result in hot spots and soft spots due to the challenge of mixing large volumes at a time.

    i was bummed, initially I thought you were going to power those PCBs and insert LEDs in place of some components… I like the fiber optic option. now power needed. NICE work.

  26. it would be cool if you did the same kind of thing with a desk but it was an actual working computer. you could do this by vacuum molding all the necessary boards epoxying using the molds then removing them and on the opposite side to the epoxy have panels to hold the board in place so they can be replaced and repaired when needed

  27. lol I'm thinking of changing my first name to 'Dust'. Wood work is so dusty! Need cleaner every time I work XD

  28. I think you should have put thin layers and let each one dry off properly before adding the next, I seriously think the big pour was the big problem.

    The project was very clever and looked great!

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