High Speed Sync and How it Works – Lighting Tutorial

High Speed Sync and How it Works – Lighting Tutorial

Here we go high-speed sync. How to set
it up and how to make it work. Beautiful girl, high-speed sync,
how can you go wrong? ♪ [music] ♪ Hi. This is Jay P Morgan. Today on The
Slanted Lens, we’re downtown Los Angeles. We’re going to do a little shot
of beautiful Angela Whitworth here looking back into downtown. We’re going to high-
speed sync our Baja B4s. The reason we’re going to do that is that we want to crush
the background a little bit. We want to have control of our shutter speed. So
we’ll be able to shoot at a thousandth of a second. That means we can open up the
aperture, make it pretty wide open, gives us a nice highlight with our strobes on
her face. So we’ll see the big buildings in the background and test this high-speed
sync on the Baja B4. Why high-speed sync? To understand
high-speed sync we need to understand how shutters work. Shutters are two curtains
that open and close. The first curtain and then the second curtain. At speeds slower
than 125th of a second, sometimes 160th depending on your camera the first
curtain opens and stays open until the shutter closes. Then the
second curtain closes. That’s for slower speeds than 125th
or 160th. At shutter speeds faster than 125th of a second,
the first curtain of the shutter opens and before it can completely open the
second shutter starts to follow behind and close. This means that there’s no time
that the sensor’s open for light all at once. A small opening is traveling across
the sensor exposing it as it goes. If your strobe goes off during this time, it
shows a black bar on the bottom of the frame. The way high-speed sync solves this
problem is it starts firing the strobe in pulses as the first curtain opens and it
continues to pulse until after the second curtain closes. This pulsing is happening
so fast that the sensor perceives this as continuous light.
So what’s the upside to high-speed sync? Why do we
use it? First off this keeps your strobe synced with your camera at faster
shutter speeds. This allows you to shoot with a wide open aperture in bright light
situations giving you a nice, shallow depth of field. Because you can keep
speeding your shutter up to make the background go darker and darker. You can
also light your subject with strobe light and then use the shutter to darken
your background. So the person stands out a little bit.
Remember shutter controls ambient light and we match
the aperture to the power of the strobes. So if we choose “F5” now we
can move our shutter speed faster and faster to make the background dark enough
to either let the person stand out or to make it dark enough so that it matches the
strobe light on the person’s face. High-speed sync give you complete control
of your strobes at all shutter speeds. So what’s the downside of high-speed sync?
First of all it takes more power. I lost about a half a stop on the Bajas when we
went to high-speed sync compared to full power without high-speed sync. So you
lose a little bit of power. Some strobes may lose more than that. I don’t know. But
know that you’re going to lose power when you go to high-speed sync. And with more
power you’re going to use your battery up a little quicker. But you know what? In
comparison to what you gain with high-speed sync, it’s a
pretty nice trade off. So let’s get our Baja B4 set-up for a high-speed
sync. The first thing we’re going to do is turn it on. That’s a good place to
start, turn it on. Then we’re going to hit the RPT button until it goes to H1. It’s
going to show us now we’re in high-speed sync. We now have the ability to dial this
up or down. We can go up to H7 which is the most power the Baja will give us in
high-speed sync. And we can dial it down to H1 which is the lowest power that it
will give us in high speed sync. We’re going to keep it on H7. That will give us
the ability to shoot at thousands of a second which will allow us to crush the
background just a little bit and shoot it a little more wide
open with our aperture. Last of all, you need to push the plus
that’s on the remote that sits on your camera so that the high-speed sync will
connect with the Baja B4. Let’s take a look at our shoot downtown. In Los
Angeles, you can get a permit to shoot on the streets. You can’t be on private
property and you can’t block the sidewalks but you can shoot on most all of the
sidewalks. It’s pretty reasonable. Our camera setting’s are 320 ISO, 1500th
of a second and F4.5. We’re going to make our background blue by
simply putting our white balance on tungsten and then putting a full orange on
the strobe. So let’s get this all together and kind of see what’s going to happen
here. We’re going to shoot a lot of different shots. We got a couple of
mirrors we’re going to put in place just to see how she looks next to the mirrors.
We’ll do some without the color crossover and some, most with. I like the look of
the color crossover. It looks really nice down here. Let’s look at our lighting
breakdown. Our key light is a medium, silver line softbox. I’s going to give
us a really nice highlight on her skin. I’m going to allow the shadow exposure to
be bright enough so that it shows blue into the shadows on her face. That’s it.
One Baja B4, dome light medium softbox and a full CTO.
Here are some of the images unretouched. You know it’s
so nice to be out and not have to worry about power. The battery powered strobes
these days are just fabulous. I then put on a 15 to 30 millimeter Tamron
lens and shot some more images. I love this wide-angle
look. Last of all I added a second Baja B4
as a rim light on the camera right side. And then we took a mirror that we had
flipped it upside down, put it up underneath her chin and reflected just a
little bit of white light back into her face. Here’s a quick lighting buildup. Key
light, a rim light just the white backside of the mirror became a reflector card
that bounced a little light underneath her chin. Here’s some more images
with that three light setup. I then took one of the images into Nik
Software and I put a bi-color filter on it. So I put a little bit of green in the
corner. And that kind of gradates a little more blue up in the upper corner
just thought that was interesting. I hope you learned something about
high-speed sync today, how we can control the background with the shutter
whether that’s long or short. So check it out. Use
that high-speed sync. Post-note: The reason I like high-speed
sync on a mono-block compared to those little tiny flashes is that you got
enough power to do something with. I hate those little flashes. Keep those cameras rolling. Keep on
clicking and don’t forget to buy one of our t-shirts. That we don’t have…yet. ♪ [music] ♪ Don’t estimate a loan. Don’t stand out in
the cold all by yourself trying to put together an estimate? Go to The
SlantedLens.com/estimating. I’ve got a digital download that will teach you
everything you need to know. You don’t have to be alone any longer. ♪ [music] ♪ Hi, this is Jay P Morgan. I’m a short man
on a box with a tall woman. Stay tuned it’s going to be exciting. Is that good?
Kate? Are you loving it?

100 thoughts on “High Speed Sync and How it Works – Lighting Tutorial

  1. Jay P., I finally gave in and purchased my Baja B4 after watching this video. I used it for the first time this weekend and it performed like a charm – and NO cables! Yay! I was on the beach in Toronto with a monoblock, just great stuff. Paired with a 80x100cm softbox, the light was dreamy. Thanks for the info.

  2. I have learn so much watching your tutorials.  Here is what I have learned through try and error:  You need remote triggers (No all are high sync capable) and you need some strobes (No all are high sync capable) and finally you need a fast lens.  By using the youngnuo  568 EX $ 70.00 and some Viltrox FC210  triggers $ 40.00, and a $ 30.00 reflector I have been able to get some very good shots in a budget.  Canon 5D Mark II with Canon 85mm F/1.8 prime.

  3. Hi Jay P Morgan
    Thank you for your great video. I love it. You got a great team
    I already have 5D Mark3
    I am going to buy this light Dynalite Baja B4 Battery-Powered Monolight 
    To do HSS, do I have to buy anything else?
    Thank you

  4. I just testing these and am finding you can't really use HSS above 1/4000th because of the falloff. This means that you are not going to be able to over power full sunlight in a situation you might end up in sadly. however the recycle time is much better than the off brand units I had purchased to test a couple months ago.

  5. Sure HSS is a great feature. Great shoot BTW.
    But for that setup, the result of 1/500s f4.5 iso320 can be easily achave by using iso100 1/160s f4.5. HSS is a waste in this shoot.

  6. Can high speed sync be useful with a speedlight? or is a baja bf or monolight be more useful because of the amount of power it gives. edit: just saw the end of the video, thanks for the info

  7. Thanks for all your video assistance to make all my pictures look good. Talking about Flash High Sync, this a good way to shot in DSLR above 1/4000 with flash. To shoot high speed 1/4000 or above, is not necessary Flash Slave Trigger Hot Shoe Sync Adapter. The only thing that you need is a flash with High Sync, Camera with flash sync speed option. First mount your flash on top of your camera, set it up to Manual or ETTL mode full power, enable the H sync. turn on the strobes or flashes synchronized to slave 1. Thats it.

  8. I can take those same pictures without HSS. Also, the exposure was not very impressive. Trust me when photographers started shooting if using a mirror was perfect to use for a fill light we would have all been using mirrors for fill light by now. Never use mirrors for fill lights, that's what you have reflectors for.

  9. Fantastic photography channel. I love your in-depth, technical descriptions and explanations. They are great for a scientific mind that wants to understand the ins and outs of photography. Keep up the great work!

  10. Thank you so much for all your videos I learned a lot from them. My question is why do you like the Baja b4 and b6 so much? And how do you find it in comparison to profoto b1 or to phottix indra500?
    Thanks again.

  11. High Speed sync with no blue skies showing? Also, I hate the color cross over look. Also, pictures are over exposed.

  12. You can also achieve the same effect-using an – ND1.2 – 4/f Stop Neutral
    Density Filter if you normally set your flash exposure to F/11 you
    would then set your aperture to F/2.8 when using a – 4/f Stop Neutral
    Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but
    significantly less depth of field.

  13. Hi, its obvious your are a quite highly qualified photographer with very expensive camera and equipment. I have just purchased a SB-910 speedflash and Camera Nikon D5500 I can tell you that it will not sync to 1/1500 of a second. high speed. and if I were to shoot high speed as you say, my battery would last only for 10 shots max.

  14. What's with all the fancy studio gears? You think most people here would go out and buy all those gears just to learn about HSS.
    Why not just use one or two speedlites, take some pics and show us, then the rest of us would be more impressed.

  15. Another great video from this channel that I was able to get some screenshots of equipment and set-ups from. I still have to use speedlights and variable ND– and hope the subject doesn't plan on moving faster than 1/200 second, but that's alright.

    You gotta love the people complaining about these demo pictures even though the thumbnail is what brought most of them in… (That, or people just really don't know what HSS is and were drawn in by the technical promise of the title).

  16. thanks for your video- is the x sync speed limitation (non HSS mode) still applicable to electronic shutter mode (as well as regular mechanical shutter mode)? (wondered if the physical curtain/shutter isn't moving in electronic shutter mode if this still applies)- thank you!

  17. not a good video on HSS, blue background kinda weird and background looked over exposures, the whole idea of HSS is to correctly expose background or even under expose to get the subject to pop, the girl was cute though

  18. why didn't you shoot at ISO 100 if you wanted to underexpose the background… instead you shot at ISO 320 and then uses HSS for the sake of using HSS… what are you even doing?

  19. Hopefully people will find the HSS explanation useful… but HSS wasn't even necessary here! The ISO was increased, just to put the shutter speed into HSS territory.
    If your settings were 1/500th, f4.5, ISO 320… then you could get the same exposure without going into HSS (1/200th, f4.5, ISO 125)

  20. Was hoping for a better result… Pictures bit too flat for my taste. They are more magazine style, than arty.

  21. sir u did a great job…
    don't listen to the haters.

    one or two were a bit overexposed… But i really loved the concept.

  22. Way to go!!! Put down every beginner and pro for using those little lights that you hate so much. I'm not going to say your pictures were horrible, but there could have been more separation and if your not going to direct the model then delegate someone who knows how to.

  23. I've learned a lot from your videos. Thank you.

    (I feel compelled to say SOMETHING to counterbalance the nastiness in some of these comments.)

  24. Well explained video! However, you used all these expensive gears, and your photos weren't that impressive. I follow photographers here on youtube that don't use all these expensive equipments and still manage to get a beautiful photo! I don't know if all these gears are mandatory.

  25. The instruction was excellent but I would have like to see more actual shooting and results. Love the tutorial though

  26. Just try shot with 2 flash gun and 1 soft box. Simple & effective. To much crew. You only need 1 crew if you wanna try my method. Nice video btw. Please visit my instagram and see my photography [email protected] hugomener. I only shoot with 1 flash gun + softbox and reflector.

  27. No disrespect but the results where not impressive at all. I understand the photos where not edited. I have shots of RAW images with natural light that look way better and I'm an amateur photographer. My lenses aren't amateur though. Am I missing something?

  28. Would be nice to have so many assistants and so much gear.. 🙂
    All my outdoor shots at www.allansinclair.com were done w/1 YN flash (100) and the indoor ones w/1 flashpoint strobe (199)..

  29. All of you here need to stop complaining and thank this man for working so hard to teach you people things you don’t even understand in the first place wow. Thanks my friend for the awesome vids. Now can you use HSS at night. And one more thing Ladies and Gentleman you can accomplish high-speed sync with most speedlites that you probably already own

  30. Besides possibly degrading image quality a little bit, what's the pros of using HSS compared to just using a ND filter to achieve the same result?

  31. Yeah seriously for the 10s of thousands of dollars worth of gear those pictures were nothing special at all. He hates speedlights and likes his fancy gear one the best headshot/portrait photographer imo uses 2 speedlites, and 1 defuser and his photos are incredible Dylan Patrick check him out.

  32. Anyone on a budget looking to improve their skills and not break the bank check out Fstoppers piece on Dylan Patrick. Outside of the camera, lens, and pocket wizard depending on the brand it’s like 300-600 dollars worth of gear.

  33. Angela is absolutely stunning!
    I still can't see how the royal wedding happened when the prince could have picked something a thousand times more beautiful like Miss Whitworth. Clearly Angela is proof there are so much better options than the one Prince Harry just married.

  34. At full power output the B1 and the B2 has a flash duration of 1/1000 of a second.

    So if you set your shutter speed on the camera to 1/2000 of a second or higher you do not need the option of high speed sync because the shutter speed is now twice as fast as the flash duration. You can use this option over high speed sync with any flash or speed light because At full power output all electronic flashes have a flash duration slower than the maximum shutter speed of any camera. This technique makes it possible for anyone who has even a inexpensive or old speed light the ability to achieve the same affect as high speed sync.

  35. "How to enable HSS. I have sony SLT A58, Godox AD200 flash, and Sony X1T-s trigger, but still beyond 1/250 sync speed (shutter speed) during bright day light, I am getting dark bands on the face of the photograph. What is the solution. Thanks."

  36. Why when im using off camera flash on my d7100 only 320th second limit the shutter speed icant go 8000 😔😔😔 but if on camera i can go 8000th second, plss help me

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