How-To Control Zigbee Smart Lights with Z-Wave Smart Switches in Hubitat and SmartThings

How-To Control Zigbee Smart Lights with Z-Wave Smart Switches in Hubitat and SmartThings


♪ Hit it ♪ ♪ That’s what I’m talkin’ ’bout ♪ – Wait, okay now, from the beginning – Stay tuned. (synthesizer music) Hey, Smart-Homers, John
Stone, the DIY Smart home Guy, with Smart Home products getting smarter and our automation
imagination getting bigger, it’s natural for us to wish
that we could get a finer level of control from our Smart Switches. I’ve been promising for awhile now that I would make a video that describes how to use a smart
switch to control scenes and Smart light bulbs. Well, here it is. The most common request is, “Hey John, how do I use a Smart Switch “to control Zigbee lights?” There’s a few reasons behind this request, one of those being that
sometimes Zigbee lights need to be reset by cycling the power and another is that you
don’t want to lose power to your Zigbee lights and
other Smart Home devices when you’re trying to control them through automations and voice control. In this video, I’m going to discuss how to set up your switch and your hub. I’ll be providing three use cases that should help you imagine
your next automation coolness, so, let’s get into it. This video is not a paid
endorsement and I receive no compensation for making this video. All product links in the description below are affiliate links and
I may receive commissions if you purchase products from these links. Some products shown in
the video were provided to me for free from the manufacturer; however, the video
should not be considered an endorsement for any of these products. In case number one, I
installed six Sylvania Lightafy Smart Plus RGBW Zigbee
lights in my kitchen. There’s a link in the description. I’m controlling those lights with the Zooz Zen27 Z-Wave Plus switch and a few other home automation rules. And, in case number two, I’m using Inovelli Red
Series on-off Z-wave Plus in-wall switch to control
yet another Osram Sylvania Smart Plus recessed
light in my entry hall. This light serves as a normal hall light as well as a garage door open indication. And, you may recognize that switch from the pre-released review
I did about a week ago. And, in case number three, I have a ring flood light
cam for my driveway, which gets it’s power from
my front porch light switch. And, I needed a way to insure that power was always provided to the ring device, but still have control
over the porch lights. Now, I didn’t test this
with any Zigbee switches, but in theory, at least one of the options that I’m about to describe should work. Wiring option one uses any Z-wave switch that has the capability that allows you to disable manual control. How do you know if you can
disable manual control? Well, in Hubitat you can look
at the device details page. If you see an option under preferences called manual control enabled, this means that you can
disable manual control on that switch. And, if you’re using SmartThings, click the gear icon and
look for a parameter called local control. If you are using Zooz Zen26 or Zen27, you’re going to want to make sure that you have the switch that
is at Firmware release 2.0 or later since that is where
this feature gets activated. The newer Zooz S2 switches are shipping with Firmware 2.0 and they
won’t need the update. There’s a link to a video that describes how to perform a Firmware OTA update just in case you need some help. It’s a relatively painless
process, so don’t be afraid. I mean, you got this. I’ve got faith in you. All of the new Inovelli’s come this way from the factories so you should be good if it’s recently purchased. It’s still a good idea to be familiar with the OTA update process. On the hub side, you may
need custom device handlers for both Zooz and Inovelli
or whatever other switch you may choose. This may be the case for both SmartThings and the Hubitat Elevation. Down below, you’re gonna
find videos that describe how to install custom device handlers for each of these switches
on both platforms. If you need help, I suggest
that you start there and then return to this video. And, now that you know what
kind of switch you need, how to install and update
the Firmware if needed, and how to install the
custom device handlers, you can skip ahead to
that part of the video that describes the solution
for each one of my three earlier mentioned situations, which should be here, here. If you can’t use these options, say your switch doesn’t support
disabling manual control and you still want a work around, this is option two, which we’re
going to discuss right now. Option two requires you to
bypass the switch altogether and only use it as a control mechanism. Please be warned you will need
to check your state and local building codes to make sure
that this method is allowed. What you are about to do
is provide unswitched power to your lights and devices
which may not be allowed in your area. If it’s not, you are going
to need to suck it up and go with option one. In this option, place both
the line and load wire in the line side of the Smart Switch. Then you can use the button
press events from the switch to the hub to create
your automaton routines. Another note, this usually works best with Z-wave Plus devices. Some older Z-wave switches
don’t always do a good job of reporting their state back to the hub. Again, I cannot stress enough, you are going to want to check
your local building codes if you go this route. The only way to kill power to the light is from the circuit breaker. The air gap on the Smart
Switch will be no help. And now, the moment we’ve
all been waiting for, here are the final solutions
that I came up with for each of my scenarios. These should give you some
great automation ideas. For these solutions,
I am going to show you how to do this in Hubitat. You SmartThings users
have several capabilities through the classic app
or tools like Webcore. You know how to use ’em.
Get rollin’ that way. At the top of the video, I mentioned those Sylvania Smart Plus RGBW recess lights in my kitchen. These are Zigbee lights that
I reviewed a few weeks back. I’m controlling these lights with the Zooz Zen27 dimmer switch. I’ve wired it using option one and I have manual control disabled and I leave the switch
turned on at all times. And, inside the Hubitat Elevation, here is the automation I have
coded in the rule machine. First I created a boolean global variable called Kitchen Full Bright. I’ll use this again in a little bit. And, the second thing that I did, was create two light groups called Kitchen Primary Lights and
Kitchen Secondary Lights, three lights in each group, primary lights being those
I want always to turn on, secondary lights being those that I want to be on only sometimes. Next, I created five
rules that get triggered from the button press
events on the Zooz N27. The first is the normal on, which is the single tap up. It’s important that you
use the button press event and not the on-off events since we want to leave the switch on at all times. And, here’s that code. If it’s nighttime or
between sunset and sunrise, I have one set of logic that evaluates the
current brightness state of the lights using that global variable that we just defined. If the lights are on in the bright mode, the logic says to turn
off the secondary lights and then dim the primary lights. If they are already dim
and you push the on button, it’ll reverse and turn
on all lights at 70%. Continuing to single
press up on the switch will toggle the lights between
that dim and bright mode. During the daytime, it
follows the exact basic logic, same basic logic, only setting the lights
to brighter levels. The second rule is for
turning the lights off. This rule looks at the bottom press event or the normal off button. Remember, I’m not turning
the switch itself off, only the associated Zigbee lights. So, when that button is pressed, it turns off the entire kitchen group and it resets that global variable to Kitchen Full Bright equals true. This makes sure that when the lights are turned back on, they
come on in dim mode. A single tap up, runs the first rule, which allows the toggling to
start itself all over again. (tick, tick, tick, tick, tick) And, the third rule is this. A robot must protect it’s
own existence as long as… (LP record scratching)
Wait, no, sorry, wrong rule. The third rule executes when
you double tap up on the switch and similar to the first on rule, only turns on lights to the blue color. I don’t use the Kitchen
Full Bright boolean, but I could if I wanted to. The fourth rule is basically
the same as the third rule only it is the double tap down and it makes the lights purple. Hey, calm down. My wife and my daughter
like the color purple. Give ’em a break. Now, the second scenario
is one of my favorite. It’s a garage door warning indication. Here’s that scenario. When my garage door’s open, the entry light turns on red. When the door closes, it turns back off. Now, the reason we picked
this particular light is because it’s visible
from both the living room and the kitchen, so it’s
a nice central light in our house that provides us
a very important indication. If the red indication is on
and we want normal light, pressing the up button
once turns the light on to a normal light color
and turning off the light either turns it off or it turns it back to the red color depending on
the state of the garage door. In this particular case,
the switch I’m using is that new Inovelli
Red Series Z-wave Plus on-off in-wall switch. And, just like the Zooz switch, I have disabled the manual
relay, internal relay. You got it, you know what I mean. And, here are a few unique conditions that I have also set up into the switch. These are cool. You’re gonna wanna check these out. Number one, if the door is open, which means that the light
is already on and red, you tap up once on the switch and the light turns on to the white color which I already said. I’m using the notification feature on the Inovelli Red Series
switch to flash that LED red. This provides me with an
indication that the garage door is still open even if I have the light on to the normal white color. And, numero dos, if
you tap the switch down and the garage is still open, it returns the light to the red setting and then cancels the
notification on the switch. If the garage is closed, it
just turns off the light. Und drei, if you want to
override the red light, I can triple tap down which
turns the red light off but turns the switch
notification back into that blinking red light. And, number four, if I
want to close the garage, I simply press the configure
slash favorites button. It sends a command to
my garage door to close. When the door closes, it triggers a rule that controls lights and locks. Everything turns off, so there’s really
nothin’ more to see here. And, we are on to the
third and final scenario. This is used to control
my front porch lights. My porch lights and my
ring flood light cam are all powered by the same light switch. So, to prevent the camera
from being shut off, I’m using this Zooz N26
Z-wave Plus on-off switch again with the internal relay disabled and the switch is set
to on the entire time. The porch light and my walkway
light are Zigbee lights and they are controlled by this Zooz ZSE29 outdoor motion sensor, video below, and also by my Schlage Connect
Z-wave Smart door lock. And, for these, there are rules that allow motion or unlocking to turn on the lights and lack of motion or locking the door to control turning off the lights. There’s other logic there to make sure that it all seems natural. Switch control works like this. Tapping up once on the wall switch will manually turn on the lights and tapping once down will
manually turn off the lights. Now, this particular
brand of Zigbee lights tend to get locked up every now and again, either in the on or off state, so I need to cycle power now and again just to get ’em back working. For this I use the double tap down. That kills the power to the circuit. I have another rule that automatically turns power back on after 60 seconds, which makes sure that
the circuit gets powered just in case if forget to turn it back on. Hmm, like that never happens. And, that’s pretty much it. I hope I gave you enough information to control your own scenes
and special circumstances. If you have other ideas
for controlling lights with a Smart Switch, let me
know in the comments below. I know I covered stuff really fast, but there was a lot of information and I was trying to keep it interesting. Maybe I’m just too much of a spaz, sorry. Don’t forget to subscribe and
don’t forget to click like. Over here, there’s a couple of videos that the internet gods think
that you really need to watch. Maybe it’s because I told ’em. Until next time, cheers. (calypso music)


5 thoughts on “How-To Control Zigbee Smart Lights with Z-Wave Smart Switches in Hubitat and SmartThings

  1. These are some great ideas for these zwave light switches! I have thought about doing something like this and didn’t know about the manual disabling. Thanks for the tips!

  2. I like all the work u put into the videos,when I get a chance I’m gonna try what you did with the switches..keep up great videos

  3. Great stuff. I've spent the last couple weeks getting to know my new Hubitat and setting up some (simple compared to yours) automations. You presented some great ideas for deeper logic and control. Now I realize that I need some switches that allow decoupling the paddle switch from actual power switching. It doesn't seem to be an option with my GE or Leviton dimmers. Very helpful videos … thanks and keep 'em coming!

  4. Wait….those LEDs are '65w' or they're 65w equivalent? Awfully high wattage for LEDs,no? I could be mistaken. Contemplating getting those myself, no clarification in the product page.

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