How to Measure Yourself for Good Pattern Fit by Sure Fit Designs

How to Measure Yourself for Good Pattern Fit by Sure Fit Designs


Hi everyone – I’m Glenda with Sure-Fit Designs and I know many of you know me as Glenda the Good Stitch. Today in this
video, I know I’m dressed like the black ninja and that’s because I’m going to
show you how to measure yourself without a sewing buddy. Now of course it’s always
easier if you’ve got a helping hand but it’s not impossible to get all of your
measurements done yourself and of course measuring yourself as accurately as
possible is really the key to getting a good fit on any sewing pattern. For those
of you who aren’t familiar with Sure-Fit Designs and perhaps this is your first
experience with one of our videos, Sure-Fit Designs is a fitting and sewing
system that does – #1 ask you to take your body measurements and #2, then we use those measurements to do what i call blue printing your body
shape and size. And the resulting pattern of course is a replication of your
measurements. And what we do with those measurements then is we apply them onto
a master pattern. And the master pattern goes in a size range from 28 inches or
71 centimeters, for our international customers, all the way on up to 62 inches
or 157.5 centimeters. So there’s a very wide measurement range there for
you to choose the measurement that represents you and then all you do is
come in and connect your dots together like a dots about coloring book and the
resulting pattern is this blue print of your body. So onto measuring. To do the
dress measurements, what we are going to do is utilize the instruction book
called the Dress Kit instructions. And we’re going to look at page 4 and 5. Now on page 4 & 5 you’ll see eleven different measurements and
those are the measurements that I’m going to be showing you how to take
yourself. There are a few tools that you’re going to require and the first
one is that you have mirror. A tri-way mirror is best but if
all you’ve got is a single mirror then that’s fine too.
You’re also going to require a tape measure, of course, and it’s best if you
can get one that’s printed on both sides. You’re also going to need a piece of
elastic and for this. You don’t want it any wider than about 3/8 of an inch so
quarter-inch wide is fine 3/8 is the maximum. And what you’re going to do with
that is tie it around your waist and then what you’re going to do is walk
around the house sit down stand up bend over and just get that elastic to sit
comfortably in your natural waist position. Mine’s as level as it can be
considering I’ve got a battery pack on the side of me. The other thing, when
you’re putting this elastic around your waist, is please make sure you don’t tie
it too tight. You don’t want to be bulging on either side. And I should also
mention that yes I am dressed like the black ninja, but at home please make sure
that you’re measuring yourself over top of your appropriate foundation garments.
So your bra, slip, pantyhose etc. And you know ladies, when you change bra styles
the level of your bustline changes and maybe the width of your apex changes. So
please make sure you’re using a bra that you would normally wear when you’re
wearing dresses and blouses. The next thing that we’re going to need is a
necklace or a neck chain. This is actually a piece of drapery chain it’s a
very heavy weighted chain that goes in the bottom of draperies. And we actually
are going to lay that around the base of our neck in order to identify our neck
point. You will need some masking tape or painter’s tape. And you also will need a
little marking pen and of course a pencil to write your measurements down.
Measurement #1 is the full bust measurement. Now for this one, this is the
one where it really is best if you have a helping hand but as I said it’s not
impossible to do it by yourself. What’s important here is that we take
the tape measure up over the back shoulder blades – the lower portion of
them – and I’ll just stand with my back to this other camera. So what you’re trying
to do is get that tape measure over the lower portion of your shoulder blades.
And then you’re going to take it around the fullest part of your bust line. And
of course you do want to look in the mirror to make sure that you’re over the
lower portion of your shoulder blades and the fullest part of your bust line.
Now another DVD that I have called the Introductory How-To DVD actually shows
me measuring a model. And what I have my model do is put our arms straight out
both of them then I put the tape around her chest and then I have her lower
her arms down. And the reason that I do that is to see if I’m going to pick up
any back expansion, because some of you ladies have a little bit of padding back
here. And you are also the ladies who when you move within your garments, you
tend to rip your seams out of your set-in sleeve garments. So it’s important
to pick up that back expansion but that’s the hard part to do on your own.
So what I want you to do is your best. So again make sure that you’re over the
lower portion of your shoulder blades at the back then go over the fullest part
of your bust and look in the mirror record that measurement or look down and
record that measurement. So then when you go to draw off your body blueprint and
you do your first test garment, your first test blouse or muslin, if that does
feel a little bit snug in your back because we weren’t able to lower the
arms down to pick up back expansion then what I’d like you to do is go to the
next dot up. So if you measured 40 inches around go to the 41 and that will give
you that back expansion room that you require.
Measurement #2 is a waist measurement. And of course as I said
you’re going to have tied that elastic around your body and let it settle in
your natural waist position. Then, you will want to measure yourself in that
waist area. Again use your mirror make sure that it’s as parallel to the floor
as possible. Now I do know that some of you have tummies and waist lines that
hang down and if that’s the case you will likely want to measure yourself
down at the angle of how your waist always sits anyway. And why this is
important is because you want to make sure that you’re getting enough length
in your bodice to cover to wherever your waist level is. Now the opposite of that
is true with the lady who tends to be the narrowest right underneath your
bustline. And I’ve seen a number of people that are like this they’re very
narrow here and then they start to widen out and they’re more like the diamond
shaped hip person. Well obviously it wouldn’t be logical to just measure to
that portion of your torso in order to get a waist level.
So you would never wear a blouse that short. So you have to be realistic in
this measurement measuring of where you would like a blouse length or a bodice
length garment to sit on your body. Measurement #3 is a high hip
measurement. And so for this one we’re coming down on the hip line and you’re
going to come down approximately 2 to 3 inches down on your hip level. And
again, looking in your mirror you’re going to keep that measurement as
parallel to the floor as possible. And here you’re going over your high hip and
hip bones and you’re also going over tummy area. So again make sure you keep
it as parallel to the floor as possible. The next measurement that you’re going
to do is your low or full hip measurement. So for this one we’re going to come down
into your low buttocks area. And this may be 6, 7, 8, 9 or even 10
inches down below that waist elastic position. It just depends where your
lowest fullest part is. Now, I do know that some ladies are going to be fuller
in their high hip area. And that’s usually the heart-shaped hip person – the
lady who carries her weight up in the tummy and high hip area. So this
measurement down below is often referred to as the low hip measurement because it
is not necessarily fuller than your high hip measurement. But irrespective of
whether it’s larger or smaller than your high hip measurement please make sure
that you take that measurement as well. And again look at yourself in the mirror
and make sure that that is as level as possible and parallel to the floor. Okay,
the next measurement is the middle of the shoulder to the apex. And so now we
need to identify the middle of the shoulder line and we’re going to measure
down to the apex. And so to do this measurement, you’re going to take a piece
of painter’s tape or masking tape and you’re actually going to place it on
your shoulder like this. And you’re going to just let that piece of tape sit on
the top of your body. Again use your mirror and try and get it as centered on
your shoulder as possible. Now, when you’re looking at yourself in the mirror,
what you’re looking for is that the piece of tape just tends to disappear to
the back. And if you have a tri-way mirror, you may be able to see from the
back of your body and it just tends to disappear to the front. Then you know
you’re identifying the top of your shoulder line. Then once the shoulder
line has been identified, now you’ll take the tape measure
measure from the middle of the shoulder line down to your apex or the highest
point of your bust line. And my tape isn’t staying stuck to my black ninja
outfit here. Okay, middle of shoulder down to apex or the
highest point of your bust – that is measurement #5. Measurement
#6 is from the middle of the shoulder line over the apex and down to
your waist elastic. And you can just go right to the middle of your waist
elastic. And measurement #7 now is waist
to hem. So for waist to hem, what you’re going to
do now is decide where you would like your day lengths dresses to fit you. So
is it going to be the middle of your knee, above your knee, or below your knee?
So take a piece of masking tape and go down and wherever you want your day
length dresses to end – just put the tape right there. And I’ve just put it kind of
in the middle of my knee. And then what you’ll do is measure from the waist
elastic and you can look at yourself in the mirror and if you can’t see what the
number is, just follow the tape measure against your body. So I’m just
going to hand press it gently against my leg until I come down and I can see what
my hem level is. And this is not a real critical fit measurement so it means
that you can change it when you get the skirt done. You can go longer or shorter
it’s a real easy measurement to change. Measurement #8 is an apex to
apex measurement. And for this one now, you are going to measure from bust point
to bust point to determine the width or the spread of your apex. Again, look at
yourself in the mirror and look to see what looks logically as your apex or the
highest point of your bust and measure the width or the spread. Now because we
are working on a half of a pattern, which is right here, we are going to take that
full width measurement and divide it in half. And it’s that half width
measurement that you are going to record. That’s measurement #8.a.
Measurement #8.b is that you do need to write down your bra cup size. Are you
an A, B, C, D, DD or E? And you know so many commercial patterns have only a B
cup dart in them. The benefit with Sure-Fit Designs of course, is that we
have what’s called the Adjust-A-Bust template.
And you can be an A,B,C, D, DD or E cup shape and put in the correct bra cup
size for you. I’ve got a couple of different videos showing you how to use
that Adjust-A-Bust template. Alright measurement #9 is shoulder
length. So for this one now I need to identify my shoulder bone and my neck
point. But first of all the shoulder bone. The best way to find your shoulder bone
is to put your arm straight out and with your opposite hand come over and feel
the top of your shoulder bone. And I do know some of you have a little bit of
padding up there and it might not be that easy to find your shoulder bone. So
with your opposite hand in front of your shoulder or on top of your other
shoulder just keep your finger on the shoulder bone and then lower your arm
coming down. And you should be able to feel the action of your arm in that
joint up at the top and it’s that top of the shoulder bone that you want to
identify. And so now you have a marker and with your opposite hand – I’m not
left-handed so I’m going to be as close as careful as possible – I want to make a
mark that indicates the top of my shoulder bone. And again this is so
important to have a mirror that you can look into to do this. Then the next thing
that we’re going to do is take your necklace or neck chain and put that
around the base of your neck and let it just sit comfortably. So in a perfect
world if our necks came straight down and then our shoulders came out straight
across it would be really easy to identify that neck point. But because our
necks come down and then we get a gradual sloping into our shoulders,
that’s why it’s so important to take a heavyweight chain, like this, and put it
around because that chain will just sit where you naturally are going to call
your neck point. And then looking in the mirror, you will start the tape measure –
whoops I’m going to do one more thing here – I’m actually
going to take a piece of tape and I’m going to tape it onto my measuring tape
like this, and then what I’m going to do is I’m going to set this on or right at
the necklace or neck chain like this. And that masking tape will hold just long
enough for you to get this measured. And then I’m going to measure out to the
mark that I did on my shoulder bone. So I can see that I’m just under 5 inches
long which is what I am. I’m 4 7/8 inches long. And this is a length that
when you are actually testing your bodice, if you’re off by an 1/8th or a
1/4 inch that is simply not a big deal to do that refinement when you
are in your testing stage. So do your best to get the shoulder length. Then,
remove the tape from your neck point. Now the last two measurements are arm length.
And again, utilizing your tape measure that has a piece of tape on the end of
it – just about drop that – we’re going to take the edge of the tape measure and
I’m going to place it right on that mark that I made for my shoulder bone. And
then I’m going to measure down to the pointy bone in my elbow. And that’s
measurement #10. And then following along the back of my arm, I’m going to go
down to the hand side of the base of the wrist bone. And again if I’m not moving
around and just looking in the mirror, I can certainly get that tape to be as
accurate as possible. So just feel for the bone that’s at the base of your
wrist and just measure to the hand side of the base of your wrist bone. And that,
my friends, is the 11 measurements. Now if you’ve enjoyed this video and I
certainly hope that you have, I invite you to join the Sure-Fit Designs
community. And you can do that in three easy steps.
Number one, make sure to sign up for the Sure-Fit Designs
newsletter. And you can do that by going to our website www.surefitdesigns.com
and at the bottom of every single page there is a newsletter signup form and
when you do there are free gifts to get you started. Number two, make sure you
like and subscribe to this YouTube channel and when you do you’ll get
notifications of new videos that I put up. And last but certainly not least, is
join our international community of like-minded seamstresses in Facebook. We
have a closed group all you need to do is request to join and I will approve
you. And join the thousands of ladies all over the world
who are posting their creations with Sure-Fit Designs, helping one another and
in general having fun. I invite you to join us and have fun too!


54 thoughts on “How to Measure Yourself for Good Pattern Fit by Sure Fit Designs

  1. Started saving up to get this entire Sure Fit system after I saw a few of your videos here on YouTube. The more I see of them the more I can't wait to get it!!

  2. Thank you for this tips. I think they will help a lot. I my blouses and t-shirts constantly slip towards the left …would that mean one shoulder is lower than the other?

  3. For the shoulder, I put the tape on my shoulder at the top, as instructed, and marked where I could feel the shoulder bone, as instructed. But then, I folded my tape exactly at the 10cm line, and gave it a good crease. I hooked it over the necklace at the crease, so the necklace (in my case, a fairly heavy, but smooth, silver chain) is holding the tape. I pulled down on the bottom of my necklace and made sure that the tape was firmly in place with the necklace right on the 10cm line. Then using my free hand, I moved the tape out to the shoulder 'dot' and took my measurement and subtracted 10cm. Trying to tape it in place, I kept moving it around forward and back and taping my hair and getting measurements up to 2cm different. But just using the necklace to hold the folded-over tape in place, I got the same measurement again and again, and I feel satisfied that my starting point for the tape (at the necklace) was consistent.

  4. For a longer skirt length, I reversed the instructions: I put the tape on my leg where I wanted the hem to be, and taped the beginning of the measuring tape to that point, then pulled the rest of the tape up to my waistline and read the final measurement which was then at waist level and easier to see. My result turned out to be the same length as the waist-to-hem length of my favorite skirt, so I'm satisfied that this is reasonably accurate.

  5. This was super helpful!! I've seen many videos explaining how to make a bodice block, but they never demonstrate how to make the measurements.

  6. Can you please tell the complete process or flow chart of pattern making like from basic bodice to correcting to true size, contouring,dart manipulation etc

  7. Omg. This is the best I’ve seen. For someone built like myself this is great since it is very difficult to get commercial patterns. None for us curvy girls who have that hour glass figure

  8. Can you please help me with vertical measurements for size 8,10,12 n 14 ready to wear garments…. petite n misse..5 3" to 5 6"…,I don't have any body form

  9. l love this system and Think it would be good to include the front upper bust and shoulder width into the measurements as it makes so much difference to the fit without having to refit or alter the blueprint afterwards. Had better results first time including these two measurements 🤗

  10. Thank you! I've sewn for over 50 years and I am impressed with your patterns and self-fitting approach. 🙂

  11. Hi Glenda. Thank you very much for your helpful videos. Could you please tell me if You have a center of formation in Atlanta . Thank you in advance.

  12. MADAM INSTRUCTOR/SURE FIT DESIGNS
    Just now i watched a couple of yr VALUABLE VIDEOS posted and displayed on the mobile. My compliments are:–
    1..video of high quality technically and packed with quality information.
    camera focus:–1 class
    lighting:————1 class
    Yr spoken English is crystal clear and i could follow every word of it.
    You spoke neither too fast to miss or slow, but at a steady rate in between the above two which is best to grasp by an audience or learner.
    voice quality:–1 class
    instruction mode and methodology:–1 class
    Watching yr valuable videos i stand to gain from yr rich practicle experience and hence subscribed.
    THANKING YOU
    VATSA INDIA

  13. RESPECTED MADAM INSTRUCTOR
    Just now i watched yr video on HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF/SURE FIT DESIGN .
    You have demonstrated/instructed well of all important measurements required to prepare a nicely fit garment with a single exception. You have not shown how to measure ARM HOLE DEPTH and also SLOPE OF THE SHOULDER. Personally i feel that this is an importent measurement required to stitch a fit garment. please explain as this measurement is difficult to correctly measure on a human body.
    If u have already done this please forgive me for not being attentive while going thro the video.
    Thanking u once again.
    VATSA INDIA

  14. Could you do a video on taking apart a blouse that fits perfectly and translating it to a pattern so you can make one or more after the shirt starts to wear a bit?

  15. Hii mam.. can u please tell how do we measure bust dart placement or princess line measurement from centre front/navel button while taking body measurements

  16. Glenda I took a seminar back in the 80’s (I think) I believe back when I lived in CA. I bought everything at that time. Some of it came in a rectangular box. It was destroyed in a flood. I was wondering if this is the product

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