How to Paint Interiors | Mitre 10 Easy As

How to Paint Interiors | Mitre 10 Easy As

A fresh coat of paint is one
of the easiest and most cost effective ways to
transform any room and give it a brand new look. Adding some color
to tired old walls will make a huge
difference, and might even add some value to your place. In any painting
job, preparation is the key to a nice,
professional-looking finish. So I’ll take you
through the prep and show you how to
get the job done right. I’m going to show you a how to
paint the interior of a room. Now, I’ve already
cleaned the room out, so I’m just about
ready to crack into it. Now, before we apply
any paint, we’re gonna have to do a
fair bit of prep. I can see all the cracks of
where all the wall boards. If you have a look
in the corner here, you can see a big,
long crack there. I can see another
one over there, and I can see all the joins. There was probably wallpaper
here at some point. And generally under
wallpaper, there was no stopping compound
or even just one coat. So before I paint, I’m gonna
have to get a stopper in here, skim all these walls for me. Now, before the
stopper comes in, I’m gonna have to sand all
these walls down and put a pigmented sealer on so it’s
got something for the stopping to take. So I’ve got a fair bit of
before we start painting. Of course, if your walls are
already in good condition, you won’t need to
get in a stopper. And if you have a room
with new wallboard which has recently been
stopped on the joins. then simply apply a wallboard
sealer before two top coats. OK, I’m just about ready to
crack out and sand these walls. A little tip– use one of
these nice little lightweight orbital sanders. Really, really easy to use. And the great thing about them–
they’re really quick to change. Got a little bit of
Velcro on the back there. So I’ve got a 120 grit,
sanding grit on here. If your walls are in
pretty bad condition, you could go down to
100 or maybe even 80. But basically we just want to
give the paint something to key to. So a 120 grit will
probably do you fine. Now, give yourself a
good mask and a good bit of air protection. Sand down all the walls,
brush off the dust, and then apply your
pigmented sealer. OK, I’ve just about
finished my pigmented seal. Now, the reason
I’m doing this is because these walls
were pretty rough, and this is going to set
it up for our plaster. Now, if you’re in
the situation where you have installed
some wallboard, and it’s been up
for quite a while, and it hasn’t got any
plaster or paint on it, and it’s started to
go a little bit yellow and what we call
“sunburn,” then you’re best to also put a
pigmented seal on. That way, you’re
ensured that the plaster is going to key to the wall. Leave the pigmented sealer
to dry for 24 hours, then get the stopper in. OK, the stopper’s been in,
and the walls are looking fantastic, a huge difference. Now, as you can see,
there’s a huge amount of dust on these walls
from all the stopping. So we are going to have
to clean that down. But before I do that, I’m going
to come in with my sander. And I just want to touch
up these architraves. As you can see, pretty rough. There’s a lot of paint
dripped everywhere. So before I go and
paint any of these, we’re just gonna sand them
back and make them look good. OK, they’re looking
nice and tidy. Now, just before
I crack into it, I’m going to remove this door. A couple of different reasons. One is because there’s not
much get underneath the door, and so nine times out of 10,
when you get carpet down, you’re gonna have
to trim the door. So to do this, we’re gonna
have to take the door off. And also it’s a lot
better finish on the door if you paint it
outside of the room. Now, to get the door
off, what we’re gonna do is pop the pins out of the
hinge, and then just remove it. If you’ve got an
older style door that doesn’t have pins
in the hinge, you’ll have to unscrew it
from the inside. Then I’m going to come in with
my broom, dust the walls down, make sure everything’s
looking fantastic. I’m starting with an
undercoat of pigmented sealer on the ceiling and walls. Then we’ll paint the
architraves, scotia, and door with a primer. Then fill any gaps and
cracks, sand, and spot prime. From there, we’ll give
the ceiling two top coats before we do our walls. Then we’ll move on to give
our walls two top coats, and finish off by painting any
doors, door frames, skirting, and window frames. I’ve applied a pigmented
sealer as an undercoat, as this is the best
practice after a full skim. Any painting job
starts by cutting in. Use a small brush to get into
places your roller can’t reach. After I’ve cut in
with a brush, I’m using a roller on the walls. Now, for all my architraves,
scotia, and skirting, and all the trims
around the window, I’m using the quick dry. This is a fantastic product. It’s gonna dry in
about 20 minutes, and I can recoat
after about 2 hours. I’m giving the door a sand with
this nice little handy sander here with a 180 grit on it. I’ve applied my primer. Now I’m just applying
my first top coat. Now, for today I’m only
gonna give it one top coat, purely because I’m
gonna wait for my carpet to go down, because I know I
need to chop the door down. So I’m gonna chop the
door down, and then I’ll give it a light sand on the
bottom where I’ve cut it, and then I’ll apply
my last top coat. Now, the top of I’m using is
the same as the skirting, which is Enamacryl This is gonna
give a nice, solid finish, and it’s gonna
take a few knocks. I’m using a flexible
gap-filler to fill any cracks around the room. And I’m using an easy to
sand interior rapid-filler to fill any nail holes. Now I’m using a
180 grit sandpaper to sand back the filler
that’s in the nail holes. And then finish
with a spot primer. OK, I’m just about ready
to paint my ceiling. I’ve already put masking
tape around my scotia, so I can start painting
right up to that. I’m gonna use my
two inch wide brush to cut in first before I roll. The type of paint
I’m actually using is a specially designed
flat paint for ceilings. So if you do have
any imperfections, it’s gonna hide it. I’ve given the ceiling two
top coats, leaving the coat to dry for three to four
hours before applying the second coat. OK, it’s time to
paint our walls. Now, I’m using the
SpaceCote Flat. The great thing about
this, it’s very durable. It’s great for
high traffic areas, and it’s also scrubbable. Now, so I’m starting to paint
from the top of my skirting to the top of the scotia. Again, I’m cutting in
first, then using my roller. Leave the first coat to
dry for three to four hours before applying the second coat. OK, I’m just about to
paint my skirtings. Now, I am using this
waterborne Enamacryl. The great thing about this,
it’s really hard-wearing, just like an enamel paint. But the good thing about it
is, there’s no solvents, so we don’t have to use any
turps to clean up, and there’s no
nice nasty smells. I’ll eventually
give this two coats, leaving it to dry for three
to four hours between coats. The type of paint I’m using
on my window and my door trims is exactly the same
as the skirtings, except for it’s a
different color. There we have it. With the proper prep
and a fresh coat, we’ve got this room looking
like it’s brand new, and it was easy as.

17 thoughts on “How to Paint Interiors | Mitre 10 Easy As

  1. When do you recommend removing the masking tape? I always removing some of my skirting/window frame paint and/or wall paint right at the end wheb removing the tape or even have leaks under the masking tape. Having to go back and touch up is so time consuming and frustrating

  2. لتقف eggfg gun.thefggffhbdeggghbddghbbgffggggyvvgggggggfffffffffffttttrrrewwwwwwwwwwerrrrtyyyyyyyyuhbbbbbbbbbbb

  3. Is there any way i can get away without having to get the old wallpaper glue off the wall . So the skim coat of plaster has something to stick to

  4. I'm a big fan of mire 10 and this video helped me to learn. And now I know how to paint when I do it with my mum on the hoildays

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