How to use decorators caulk

How to use decorators caulk


Nothing looks worse than a crack in between
decorated surfaces as it will really draw your eye to it and make the job look unfinished.
For example this wall has been painted with a mist coat, but at the top there is a gap
where the wall meets the coving. If this is not fixed before the final coat of paint it
will make the job look awful. Gaps around door frames also look bad and require caulking
before decorating. This also applies to gaps above skirting boards. Decorators caulk is excellent for filling
small gaps before painting or decorating. It can often be painted over within one hour
and will stay flexible unlike many fillers that can crack with movement. You can often get decorators caulk in a few
different colours. In this video I am using white and magnolia, but both of them can be
easily painted over. Decorators caulk is normally only suitable
for indoor use. If you require a similar product for use externally that you can overpaint
you can get some hybrid silicones which are over paintable. Sometimes you only need to fill some small
gaps as in this demonstration with this coving. It’s simply a case of applying some caulk
and then smoothing it using a wet finger. When caulking the important bit is cutting
the nozzle on the caulk tube to the correct size, so for small gaps you need to cut a
nozzle with a small exit hole and for larger gaps you need a larger nozzle hole. The gap between the door frame and wall is
a little wider and so I have cut a wider nozzle. I’m using white caulk for this as the door
frame is being painted white afterwards. Firstly I have checked that there is no loose material
in the way. I’m now applying a bead from top to bottom, if you miss a bit and leave
a gap make sure you go back and cover it before smoothing it off. Because this is a larger
bead there will be a lot of excess caulk when smoothing it off so I’m now spraying the
caulk with the water and soap solution. This will prevent any excess caulk from sticking
to the wall or the door frame when I’m smoothing it off. Again I am wetting my finger before
smoothing off the bead. The corner of this room has some obvious damage,
it’s impossible to fill a gap like this using paint and so it’s best to caulk it.
Using a filler is not a good idea as it could crack due to any movement.
Again I am running a bead of caulk from top to bottom. I’m now spraying it with the
soap solution before smoothing it off with a wet finger. In about 1 hour this can be painted over.
In this demonstration I am caulking all the way around this room with a small bead of
magnolia caulk, so I have cut a nozzle to have a small hole. I’m applying the caulk,
then spraying my finger with the soap and water solution before smoothing the bead. I hope this video has been useful and if it
has please subscribe if you have not done so already.


37 thoughts on “How to use decorators caulk

  1. sometimes the bloke has a forearm tattoo and sometimes he doesn't, its magic! (or maybe it was a shadow and hairy arm!) good video again!

  2. Do you have problems with the paint crazing/crackling on top of caulk? I have had nothing but trouble with this and have found the only solution is to prime the caulk with 2 coats of coverstain or similar first, bit of a pain in the arse to be honest.

  3. I can never do it with my finger always make right mess ,use maskin tape perfect every time,just takes awhile to set up

  4. Thanks for the examples, I have a few cracks around doors & windows and this video is of great help. I was worried at first thinking the house is coming apart at the seams. LOL

  5. Great tips as usual. Caulk is wonderful stuff, it makes me sad sometimes though as I feel we've lost some skills along the way. They didn't have this in the Victorian times so their workmanship must be excellent! Also when I've plastered a room ceiling and wall I run a Stanley blade at each corner and fill with caulk. Any house moves and this little trick keep the corners from cracking, as this is a weak spot even with scrim it will crack.

  6. I think this is a good video.. especially the tip about cutting the nozzle… I always clean and keep the cut nozzles in varying sizes, then if you have a unfinished tube it can be securely re sealed with the original uncut nozzle.

  7. Which caulk do you use as I am having major problems with caulking cracking especially with emulsion, I have even left it for over night to cure but still having trouble with cracking

  8. I once bought a cheap tube of caulk from Poundland for a late quick job.

    DON'T ever do this

    3 coats of paint later and the caulk is visible like a stain is.
    Had to over spray paint it with stain blocker and re-apply the blue paint.

    Nasty stuff, it's cheap for a reason! (Hint: rhymes with Rap)

  9. Been hearing some people opt for plain waters, others for soapy water or Windex and you got salt-water. Is this a personal preference thing? His caulking technique is on point – when I tend to go back up to cover up missed areas I tend to smear all over the place – think it has to do the way I am cutting the nozzle and maybe the size (always tend to cut it a tad bit smaller)

  10. i find with decoraters chaulk after some time if u look closly it has cracks all the way do u know why that happens and the chaulk is good quality

  11. Like the idea of the spray – you make the long beading look easier than it is – very informative -thank you –

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *