Learning Leathercraft with Jim Linnell – Lesson 10: Creating A Wallet Interior

Learning Leathercraft with Jim Linnell – Lesson 10: Creating A Wallet Interior


Hi, I’m Jim Linnell with Tandy Leather. I’m going to be showing you
how to make a wallet, and I’ll be going through
each of the steps, with each of the tools in enough detail so that’ll you know how to get the best results
out of your leatherwork. We’re going to build
an interior for our wallet, and we’re going to cut
all of those pieces out now. You’ll find a copy
of all of these parts online you can print out a copy of that. I’ve taken and traced those outlines
onto some bag stiffener. It’s just a little bit
of a stiff cardboard, and I’ve written on the top of each one how many of each piece I need to cut. Some of these where it says cut two,
one left, one right, just trace it once and then
I’ll flip it over to cut a second one so that I have a left
and a right version of them. And this makes these wallet
interior parts reusable. You can use these over and over again. When I get done with these
I’ll punch a hole in each one of these and put a key post through it
or something like that so that I can keep them all together
and next time I need to make a wallet, here we go, I’ve got these parts
all cut out, ready to reuse, and you can get a lot of use
out of these templates like this. So it’s a good idea
on the popular projects that you’re working on
to maybe make some templates of the parts that you’re going
to want to cut often. We’re going to cut this wallet interior
out of some 2/3 ounce veg tan cowhide. It’s just natural leather, just like what we were tooling
our wallet back on except that it’s a lot thinner, which will keep us from having
a lot of bulk in the project when you fold a wallet up. And so when you get ready
to lay these out, if you have all of your parts, you can lay that
on your piece of leather to make sure you get maximum usage
out of your piece of leather. If you want to lay them out like that– it helps you to get
the most out of you leather. Then, what I’ll do,
is I’ll take just a common pencil, and I’ll go ahead and just draw around the outline
of this piece here; and that becomes my… that’s how I get my pattern on
that piece of leather I have it drawn on there,
and we’ll just– got that one traced,
we’ll do this other one. This here is the pockets that go in our project. Here is another part of– the pockets, so just trace
around it with the pencil. We’re going to cut right on
that pencil line when we cut this out, so that’s going
to for the most part disappear. This piece right here actually has a slot in it that we need
to make sure we mark as well. You see these lines here,
I’ve punched a hole in either end of this so we want to make sure
that we trace the slots on the project as well. There we go; we’ve got those
two parts cut out. Let me show you
the cutting out steps here then– I’m just going to use a razor knife. These come in a lot of different ways. This is one that’s available
from Tandy Leather. You can keep a sharp blade in, because when this one gets dull
you can just put a new one in there. So that’s what I like to use. And I’m working on a cutting surface, this is just a high density plastic. Again it’s like a cutting board,
it’s something, again, it’s available from Tandy Leather,
but works real good. It protects the blade as you are cutting. You can cut right through it.
It doesn’t drag. Sometimes if you are working on wood
or on hard rubber, when you’re cutting out
your piece of leather that will… your blade will stick in that material, and it makes it hard for you
to cut all the way through, but if you have a big sharp knife, this 2/3 ounce leather cuts fairly simply. You just, again, follow in those lines in cutting it in. Sometimes you might find it easier
to trim this piece out so that you’re not having to work
with a whole side of leather that will just get that big piece
out of our way and just trim this out. Makes it a little easier to work
with it on your board. There are a lot of tools
that are made for cutting leather. You could probably use
a good pair of sheers. You could use one of the tools that– Historically, what has been used
for doing this kind of cutting is a head knife. But most folks don’t do enough
leather work to be able to justify having a tool like that
just for cutting it out. But everybody probably has a knife
like this laying around, so it’s just– and it works just fine
for doing this. I find it convenient
and easy to get a hold of. Again it’s real easy
to keep a sharp blade in and you don’t spend
a lot of time honing it. And then we need to cut
these two slots in here. One of the things that works real good is if you’ll take a round hole punch, just the smallest one you have and punch a hole
at each end of these slits. (tapping) Makes it easier when we connect
these piece together, then we use the knife and connect those. But it won’t take you very long
to cut these pieces out, and we’ll be ready
to start shaping them here in a second. We have all of our pieces
cut out of the 2/3 ounce leather, and I’ve already started
forming some of them. You notice that we got to fold some
and put some creases on them. So let me show you on a couple
of these here how we do that. For example, on this pocket here, we have a crease that we run around
the outside edge of it, so since this is veg tan leather, we’ll just take it
and moisten it a little bit with the sponge and some water, and as that starts
to dry just a little bit, I’m going to use a tool here
called an adjustable creaser. It is adjustable by screwing this down; you can make a wider crease,
narrower crease, whatever fits your project. And all this does
is just put an attractive crease along the edge of your project and on your dampened leather it doesn’t take a lot of pressure
to do this. Just going to move it along, laying one edge
over the edge of your leather, and then by pushing it along
we get this nice little crease that gives it kind of a finished look. I think that if you look
at a lot of finished leather good, you’ll see that a lot of times,
these raw edges– they’ll run some kind of a crease; just a decorative border is all it is. And this tool works really good
for doing that. And then, once you get that on there, you come back and work it a little bit
to give it a little more prominence. This is how those creases
are put on there. See that? And then we’ll do
the same thing on this other piece. We also have to fold this piece. This is the rest of the pocket. There’s actually two pockets
on each side of this project and this edge right here is
the leading edge on that pocket that goes underneath that, so we’ll dampened this down– we’re actually going to dampen
this whole piece of leather down because we also have to fold it
and shape it, so that it’s ready to go in
and be the pocket that it needs to be. So we’ll first it down
with a little bit of moisture, and I’m not soaking it
all the way through, you can see that it’s just getting damp
on the top edge and the part that’s going to show
is actually this edge right here. If you look at this other side
that I’ve already done. When these get laid together,
we have a nice double pocket like this with that crease running
along both edges there. So to do this on this side, we’ll run–
well, starting about here. We’ll run along this edge and over to the bottom
of this side of it. Then we’ll get this little crease
along the edge. And then, this piece needs
to be folded as well and basically, the fold line goes
right in the middle here, in fact, if you fold this piece in half, these two curved edges right here
will pretty much line up, and when they line up, that will cause your fold
to be almost in the middle here so we’ll– Well, this is damp,
just go ahead and form this piece. You can use a tool like a creaser. This is a buffalo bone folder that we have and just with a little bit
of pressure here you can get a nice sharp crease here, and then let this piece of leather dry,
and it’ll dry in that shape, and then we’ll be ready to dye it and make the interior
the color that we want it. That’s how we shape that piece so when we get ready then
to assemble this, this pocket will get stuck over the top and gives us
a nice double pocket on the top, and we’ll have that on both sides. It gives us four good usable pockets
on our project. This will give you a rough idea what our wallet interior
is going to look like. Like I said, it’ll have a couple
of pockets on either side. We have this center piece
that holds that together, and you’ll see that I’ve got
some grooves in it here or it looks like grooves. These are actually creases
that I stuck in there with this same adjustable creaser and all I did was using a straight edge and using really about the same spacing
I just ran it up and back and forth until I had a multiple group
of these creases running up there. And the reason for that is
that will give us a little bit like an accordion type of an interior, allows us to fold,
when we fold the wallet in half that way we won’t have it wrinkling there. It’ll disguise that. I use the adjustable creaser
for doing this rather than wing dividers because the creaser actually
has kind of a blunt edge here, it actually puts a crease in the leather, whereas the wing dividers
have a sharp point on them, and they would actually
kind of scratch the leather, and I don’t really want to scar this,
I just want to add these creases. So that’s the reason for this tool
over the wing dividers. Thank you for joining me today. Be sure and check back
often here at our blog, and we’ll show you more tips and ideas on how to get the most fun
out of your leatherwork.


One thought on “Learning Leathercraft with Jim Linnell – Lesson 10: Creating A Wallet Interior

  1. Jim, I really appreciate you tutorials. Can you tell me how you removed the cardboard? I have had problems removing cardboard when I have used it. Many thanks, Doug

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