Nissan Juke LED Interior How To Install – 2011-Present

Nissan Juke LED Interior How To Install – 2011-Present


What’s happening everyone, my name is Phil with PrecisionLED.com and today we have a 2011 Nissan Juke we’ll be installing LED interior lights on. Now this installation is compatible with
year models 2010 and up and also compatible with the Infinity ESQ. Now today we are using a PrecisionLED premium 5730 style LED lighting kit and we’ll be installing lights on our three lights here in the front, the driver side and passenger front map
lights, as well as the single dome light. In the rear we have a trunk light, the license plate lights, as well as some back up reverse lights. Let’s go ahead and get started. We’re looking now at the front overhead
console here on the Juke. We have our map lights on the left and right and the dome light here. In order to remove this panel, we’re gonna be using one of the three
included trim tools that comes with every PrecisionLED kit. This one’s considered our pointed wedge. You’re gonna come in from the side, there’s a slight indentation here. You’re just gonna pry it loose. And this whole panel should pop right off. Now for the bulbs, they’re a little bit hard to access so I have a pair of pliers here. Now, as you’ll notice, I took some duct tape and I just covered the end so it’s not as abrasive. So you don’t have any chance of shattering the bulbs. And you’re just gonna go in and pull them out, just like that. Do the rest of them. And we’re going to replace them here with our 5730 style LEDs. Now these are our premium high-powered LEDs. We also have a standard version that’s
available on the website but these ones are a little bit brighter than the others. These ones go in the same way the
halogen bulbs came out. And we’re just gonna test to make sure
they all work before we put this cover back on. This one just goes on top, snaps into place. We’re looking here at the trunk light on the Juke. You’re going to use the flat end of what we call our serrated knife tool. And you’re gonna come from the bottom and just pry back. And this panel should be popping out. First thing you want to do is remove the connector, so you get to turn the light off. And that is just a little push tab right here that you’re depressing before
you pull it away. You’re then taking the flat end here and just prying this cover off. And that should expose the bulb. The bulb is just a little bit hot, so we are gonna use our pliers, just to remove. And our new LED is just slightly larger than what’s intended for this spacing. So, I’m gonna bend this back a little just to provide enough space that we need to get our new LED in. And it really doesn’t take much at all. These are pretty flexible pieces of metal. Looks just like that. And, for safety, you can just take this lip end right here just press it in a little. Now you want to make sure that the LED is twisted or turned so that the LED boards are facing out of the plastic panel. And you can go ahead and plug it in just to test to make sure it works. And that’s much brighter. You then take your cover, put that back on, one side at a time. And once you have it secure, the connector side goes in first. And this side should pop back in. For the license plate light, again we’re gonna use the flat end of the serrated knife tool. You’re gonna come in from the side closest to the
rear view camera, or to the inner door handle. And you’re actually gonna push
this whole plate over to the side and then pry down. Once you have that one side out, you’re actually gonna come to the other side and pull down like this. And that’s gonna release the entire module. From here, this you turn counterclockwise to release and you pull out and now you have access to the bulb. This one will just come out with your fingers. Regular halogen T10 bulb. And the new LED comes in. Now it’s important to note, if you got the standard kit these premiums are not polarity-specific so even if I plug it in this way or this way it’s still going to turn on because the advanced circuitry in here. A standard LED doesn’t have that advanced circuitry. The positive and negative have to line up. So if you’re using a standard kit, you would want to plug them in, have someone test the lights for you, make sure they work. If they didn’t you would unplug, turn it around, and then try again. Since this one, we know it’s going to work either way, we’re just gonna put this back into the module here. Turn it clockwise to lock it in. And when you put it back in, you’re gonna do the opposite. You’re going to put this side in first with the wiring. Because this side here has a spring mechanism and this one is gonna pop into place when you push it in. Repeat that for the other side
and you’re all set. Now to get access to your back up reverse lights, we’re actually gonna need a 10
millimeter socket and socket wrench. And removing these two bolts right here and right here. So let’s go ahead and do that now. Now that you have the two bolts removed, you’re actually gonna use the crowbar shape tool that comes in the kit. You’re gonna start here down from the bottom, start prying it up, like that. And the whole thing should pop up. And now, we can flip this thing around. And now you have access right here to the back up reverse light. This just turns counterclockwise comes right out. And we’re gonna replace it with a 10 LED T10 High power for back up. Direct replacement. And if you’ll notice, there are three small tabs here that need to line up in here. It only fits in one way. And so once you have it clicking in, you’re gonna turn clockwise to lock it back in place. Now that it’s in, you’re gonna line these sections up with the bolts. Give it a good push. Pop it back in place. And then you’re gonna put the two screws back in, and you’re done. You do wanna make sure that we test these
lights, or you test your lights, before you go ahead and fully reassemble to make sure that everything works. There might be a connection loose somewhere,
so you don’t wanna do that work before you’re done testing. But … that should be all to it. And that’s the end of the installation. If you have any questions or concerns please email us at [email protected] or you can reach us online and submit a support ticket at www.PrecisionLED.com/contact Now, like we said before, please like or subscribe if you enjoyed the video or enjoy the process for what we do. It really does help us out when we make the next one knowing that there’s people out there
watching the videos. Have a good one!


14 thoughts on “Nissan Juke LED Interior How To Install – 2011-Present

  1. Hi.. If I wanted to replace the Back rear light, if i remove the two screws/nut and pop out the head unit and disconnected the light plug can i then swap with a new rear back light unit? (I think there are three bulbs in the rear head unit)

    Someone decided to crack it.

    Thanks

  2. HI, I found your instruction very clear, and helpful, however I need to know how to replace the the headlights on Juke. Since you are a great teacher, I look forward to see your video on this subject.

  3. Hi dear Phyl, thank you for your kind response. Please let me know when you make an instruction video on replacing the head lights on Juck. I actually checked out all the related videos on this subject, but much to my disappointment, all of them appeared to be vague, and disorganized. I will go ahead and wait for your video, which I am sure it will be as complete, and instructional as your other video. Best Regards,Razi

  4. Hi All! My Nissan Juke 2011 model Audio and Navigation System requires a reset code after i unknowingly changed the car battery. The panel now is displaying a need for a factory reset code after i made several trials to no avail. Can anyone help please?

  5. Hi, I'm on the site and can't figure out what the difference is between the standard and premium packages. it looks like all the same stuff but at different prices.

  6. Ciao bellissimo video spiegato in modo molto semplice. Mi potresti dire gentilmente che luci comprare? Grazie mille.

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