Sustainability in the Fashion Industry

Sustainability in the Fashion Industry


>>TARYN HIPWELL: SO LIKE HE
SAID, MY NAME IS TARYN HIPWELL. I’M A WRITER, PRODUCER,
AND ECO DIVA. AND WHAT I DO IS I CREATE
CONTENT AND EVENTS BASED AROUND SUSTAINABLE
FASHION AND EDUCATING ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION,
AS WELL AS TEACH ABOUT IT. AND I WANT TO ASK A QUICK
QUESTION FIRST IN — OKAY SO THERE’S A MOVIE
THAT’S OUT RIGHT NOW CALLED “THE TRUE COST”,
AND I WANTED TO SEE IF ANY STUDENTS HAVE
HEARD OR SEEN THE MOVIE. [ SILENCE ] EXCELLENT. ARE THEY SHOWING
IT IN YOUR CLASSES, OR IS IT OUTSIDE OF SCHOOL?>>ON NETFLIX.>>NETFLIX?>>NETFLIX; YES.>>RIGHT; OKAY GREAT. SO I’M ACTUALLY GOING TO BE SHOWING THE SIZZLE
[PHONETIC] FOR THAT. SO WITH MY PARTNERSHIP WITH TEDX
LA, THEY ACTUALLY CAME TO ME TO ASK ME TO EDUCATE THE
LOS ANGELES COMMUNITY ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION. AND I DID AN EVENT THAT WAS
IN NOVEMBER OF LAST YEAR, AND I HAD THE OPPORTUNITY
TO HAVE THE WRITER/PRODUCER OF “THE TRUE COST” BE ON THE
PANEL, AS WELL AS SOMEBODY FROM AILEEN FISHER, AND A
BRAND CALLED “REFORMATION”. I’M ACTUALLY WEARING A
REFORMATION DRESS RIGHT NOW. SO I WANTED TO SHARE WITH YOU
HOW FAR THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS COME, EVEN JUST IN THE
LAST LIKE TWO, THREE YEARS. THIS PARTICULAR PHOTO UP HERE, THERE’S A DESIGNER
CALLED DEBORAH LINDQUIST, WHO NOW HAS A LINE
CALLED “GREEN QUEEN”. AND WHEN I FIRST
STARTED EDUCATING ABOUT SUSTAINABLE
FASHION, THE LEVEL OF STYLE WITH THE SUSTAINABILITY WAS
JUST NOT COMING TOGETHER. AND FINALLY WITHIN THE LAST
SEVERAL YEARS IT REALLY IS COMING FULL CIRCLE. [ SILENCE ] SO I CREATED THIS
CHART JUST FOR MYSELF SO I COULD UNDERSTAND WHAT WAS
ACTUALLY GOING ON IN MY BRAIN. AND WHEN YOU SEE THE CENTER —
AND I REALIZE THAT THIS ISN’T AS CLEAR AS I WAS
HOPING IT WOULD BE, BUT IT SAYS “SUSTAINABLE
FASHION”. FOR ME THE IMPORTANT
THINGS TO THINK ABOUT ARE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY, ENVIRONMENTAL MANUFACTURING,
AND RECYCLING. AND FROM THERE I DEVELOPED
THAT OUT TO THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FABRIC THAT FALL IN UNDER ALL OF THOSE DIFFERENT
THOUGHT PROCESSES. SO FOR ME WHAT I’M
GOING TO CONCENTRATE ON WITH THE NEXT COUPLE OF
SLIDES IS TO ACTUALLY GET PEOPLE TO RETHINK THE TRADITIONAL
WAY OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY, AND GIVE YOU IDEAS OF
WHAT IT REALLY LOOKS LIKE. [ SILENCE ] SO THE FIRST THING TO TALK
ABOUT IS THE PESTICIDES AND THE GROWING OF THE
FIBERS, AND THE CHEMICAL RUNOFF THAT GOES INTO THE WATER SYSTEM. THIS IS SOMETHING
WHERE WHEN I SPEAK ABOUT WHY I DO SUSTAINABLE
FASHION, AND WHY I EDUCATE, I HAD SEEN A FILM ABOUT SEVEN
YEARS AGO WHERE THE RUNOFF OF PESTICIDES WAS GOING
INTO THE WATER SYSTEM, THE WATER SYSTEM WAS GOING
INTO A COMMUNITY, AND 12- AND 13-YEAR-OLD KIDS WERE
DRINKING FROM A WATER FOUNTAIN IN THE SCHOOLS AND
GETTING LEUKEMIA. AND FOR ME THAT JUST
DOESN’T WORK. LIKE IT REALLY — IT
MAKES ME SO ANGRY TO KNOW THAT IT ACTUALLY WAS CHEAPER
FOR THEM TO PAY OFF THE DEBTS AND THE MEDICAL BILLS,
THAN TO ACTUALLY TRY — LIKE TO SWITCH AROUND THE WAY
THAT THE PRODUCTION WAS DONE. SO I SAW THIS VIDEO — OR THIS
PICTURE, AND IT REALLY HELPED ME TO SEE LIKE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE. AND NOT ONLY IS GOING INTO THE
WATER SYSTEM FOR THE PEOPLE, BUT IT’S THE ENTIRE ECOSYSTEM. [ SILENCE ] THE NEXT STEP IN PRODUCTION THAT
I TALK ABOUT IS THE BLEACHING AND THE DETERGENT IN
THE PREWASHING PROCESS. SO MOST CHEMICALS
THAT NEED TO BE PUT ONTO FABRIC BEFORE IT’S DYED,
THEY ACTUALLY DO BLEACH IT SO THAT THEY CAN GET A FLAT
COLOR BEFORE PUTTING THE DYES ON IT. [ SILENCE ] THIS IS WHAT CHINA LOOKS LIKE WHEN THE DYE
PROCESSES ARE NOT MONITORED. SO THERE’S THIS SAYING
ON THE BOTTOM. IT SAYS, “YOU KNOW THE
COLOR THAT’S GOING TO BE IN THE FASHION NEXT
SEASON BY THE COLOR OF THE RIVERS IN CHINA.” THIS IS A VISUAL FROM THE CFDA. AND THEY HAVE A CLEAN
BY DESIGN PROGRAM TO ACTUALLY GET DESIGNERS TO
REALIZE WHY IT’S SUPER-IMPORTANT THAT WE DO HAVE RULES
AND REGULATIONS SET UP, ESPECIALLY IN THIRD
WORLD COUNTRIES. [ SILENCE ] THIS IS AFTER THE
GARMENT IS CREATED. I HAD A STUDENT THAT WAS IN MY
CLASS AT FIDM, AND HE WANTED TO GO OVER TO CHINA
TO DO A DENIM LINE. AND HE WAS TELLING ME WHEN
HE WENT INTO THE SWEATSHOP THAT THE WAY THAT THEY ACTUALLY
DO THE BLEACHING PROCESS IS THAT THEY HIRE A PERSON TO SPRAY
BLEACH ONTO THE DENIM TO CREATE LIKE THE WHISKERS, AND THE STONE
WASH, AND THINGS LIKE THAT. BUT THEY ONLY HIRE THEM
FOR ONE TO TWO YEARS, BECAUSE THEY DON’T
WANT TO BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE OUTCOME OF
THE PERSON’S LIFE. AND FOR ME THESE ARE
THE TYPES OF THINGS WITHIN THE FASHION INDUSTRY THAT
REALLY DO NEED TO BE ADDRESSED. I’M GOING TO TAKE A SECOND
REALLY QUICK, BECAUSE I’M GOING TO SHOW YOU A VIDEO NEXT. I WANTED TO ASK THE AUDIENCE
ALSO, “HAVE YOU HEARD OF A DETOX PROGRAM
BY GREENPEACE? [ SILENCE ] [ BACKGROUND TALKING ] [ VIDEO PLAYING ] [ SILENCE ] SO THE REASON WHY I SHOWED THAT
IS THAT GREENPEACE IS TAKING ON EDUCATING ABOUT WHAT’S
GOING ON WITH THE TEXTILES, AND THE CHEMICALS THAT ARE
GOING IN THE WATER SYSTEMS. AND THEY ACTUALLY ARE
REACHING OUT TO A LOT OF LARGE-SCALE BRANDS TO GET
THEM TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE DIFFERENT THINGS
THAT THEY ARE PUTTING INTO THE WATER SYSTEM. AND RIGHT NOW I KNOW THAT THEY
HAVE PUMA ONBOARD; BENETTON. I BELIEVE THERE’S TEN
BRANDS THAT THEY’VE GOTTEN TO SIGN AN AGREEMENT THAT
BY 2020 THAT THEY’RE GOING TO REMOVE TOXIC CHEMICALS
OUT OF THEIR SUPPLY CHAIN. [ SILENCE ] [ VIDEO PLAYS ] SO THE REASON WHY I WANTED
TO SHOW THE CLIP FROM “THE TRUE COST” IS
THE ACTUAL TRUE COST OF YOUR PURCHASE AFFECTS PEOPLE
THAT YOU’RE NEVER GOING TO MEET. AND I KNOW THAT THIS
PARTICULAR SERIES IS CALLED “RETHINK, REFUSE, AND REUSE”. SO THE FIRST PART IS TO RETHINK
THE TRADITIONAL FASHION — [ SILENCE ] SUPPLY CHAIN, AND
THEN HOW TO SHIFT IT SO THAT IT CAN BE
MORE SUSTAINABLE, AND INCORPORATE PEOPLE,
PLANET, AND PROFIT. WITH REFUSING, I KNOW AS
MYSELF NOW THAT I DO KNOW SOME OF THE THINGS THAT
I KNOW, I CHOOSE NOT TO LIKE HAVE A BLIND EYE
TURNED TO THESE TYPES OF FACTS. I ACTUALLY LIKE TO DO THE
RESEARCH TO SEE WHAT IS IN A BRAND, WHO’S MAKING IT,
WHAT TYPES OF THINGS GO INTO IT. I WANTED TO ALSO ASK THE
AUDIENCE, “IS THERE ANYBODY THAT SHOPS IN A WAY
WHERE THEY DO RESEARCH ON THE BRAND BEFORE
THEY GO TO PURCHASE IT?” [ SILENCE ] EXCELLENT. NOW, FOR ME I’VE
ALWAYS BEEN SUPER-NERDY. SO FOR ME I’VE BEEN
DOING THIS PROBABLY SINCE I WAS ABOUT 14 YEARS OLD. AND THIS THOUGHT PROCESS IS
SOMETHING WHERE I’M EXCITED TO SHARE THIS WITH YOU AT THE
TIME AND SPACE THAT YOU’RE AT, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU’RE IN THE
SPACE OF BEING ABLE TO LEARN. AND ALSO JUST TO SEE IF
WHENEVER YOU’RE DOING PROJECTS THAT ARE OUTSIDE OF THE FASHION
INDUSTRY, IF THERE ARE WAYS TO ACQUIRE INFORMATION ABOUT
ALL DIFFERENT TYPES OF DESIGN. WITHIN THE ARCHITECTURE
AND INTERIOR DESIGN, THERE’S SOMETHING CALLED
“LEED CERTIFICATION”. THE GREAT THING IS, IS THAT
LEED CERTIFICATION IS SOMETHING THAT HAPPENED BEFORE SUSTAINABLE
FASHION STARTED BECOMING A LITTLE BIT MORE OF A
CONVERSATION PIECE. AND NOW WE ACTUALLY
DO HAVE THINGS LIKE THE SUSTAINABLE
APPAREL COALITION, AND ETHICAL FASHION
FORUM THAT DO EXIST. SO FOR US IT’S A WIN,
BUT DIFFERENT TYPES OF DESIGN PROGRAMS ARE ALL DOING
THINGS FOR THE BETTER GOOD. [ SILENCE ] SO ANOTHER THING THAT I
THOUGHT WAS INTERESTING IS FOR MYSELF I DO LIVE INSIDE OF
A BUBBLE OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION, AND I ASSUME THAT THINGS
ARE BEING DONE BETTER FOR THE MOST PART
BECAUSE OF THE DESIGNERS THAT I HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY
TO MEET. BUT WHEN I SAW “THE TRUE COST”
IT STILL BROKE MY HEART TO KNOW THAT THESE ARE ACTUALLY PICTURES THAT ARE STILL HAPPENING
RIGHT NOW; THAT THE CHEMICALS ARE STILL
GOING IN THE WATER SYSTEM, AND THAT PEOPLE ARE
LITERALLY COVERED IN DIFFERENT TYPES
OF TOXIC CHEMICALS. [ SILENCE ] THE GREAT THING IS, IS THERE’S
MULTIPLE DIFFERENT PEOPLE THAT ARE TAKING ON
MOVING FORWARD, AND TO DO THINGS
MORE SUSTAINABLY. SO THESE ARE SOME OF
THE CERTIFICATIONS THAT IF YOU DO SEE THEM
ON DIFFERENT PRODUCTS THAT THIS GIVES YOU
AN INDICATION THAT THEY ARE FOLLOWING
REGULATIONS THAT ARE UP TO CODE WITHIN THE PLACES WHERE THE
GARMENTS ARE BEING MADE. THERE’S ALSO FAIR TRADE,
WHICH IS OUTSIDE OF THE US, BUT KNOW THAT FOR
MYSELF THESE ARE THE ONES THAT I PERSONALLY
SEE MORE OFTEN. [ SILENCE ] THIS BRAND RIGHT HERE IS
REALLY AMAZING TO TALK ABOUT, BECAUSE IT’S CALLED
“KROCHET KIDS”, AND WHEN THEY DID A KICK-STARTER
CAMPAIGN, THEY ACTUALLY MADE OVER $100,000 MORE THAN
WHAT THEY HAD ASKED FOR, BECAUSE SO MANY PEOPLE
WERE SO EXCITED TO HAVE A HAT THAT’S MADE
BY A WOMAN IN AFRICA, AND YOU ACTUALLY GET
TO HAVE THE SIGNATURE OF THE PERSON THAT’S
MAKING THE GARMENT FOR YOU. SO IN THE SPACE OF THINGS
BEING DARK AND HEAVY FROM THE BEGINNING PART OF
WHAT I WAS SPEAKING ABOUT, I ALWAYS TELL PEOPLE
THAT, “I’M PROBABLY GOING TO MAKE YOU CRY INSIDE A LITTLE
BIT WHEN I START SPEAKING, BUT I PROMISE I’LL SHARE WITH
YOU THE AMAZING AND GREAT THINGS THAT ARE ACTUALLY
HAPPENING RIGHT NOW.” AND THIS BRAND RIGHT
HERE JUST — IT BLOWS ME AWAY WHAT THEY’VE
DONE AND HOW THEY’VE TAKEN ON THE FASHION INDUSTRY, AND
CREATED THE COMMUNICATION BETWEEN WHO’S MADE YOUR CLOTHES
AND WHAT YOU’RE PURCHASING. [ SILENCE ] GROCERIES APPAREL IS A
BRAND THAT’S BASED HERE IN LOS ANGELES DOWNTOWN,
AND THEY’RE DOING A LOT OF THINGS SIMILAR
TO AMERICAN APPAREL WITH VERTICAL INTEGRATION,
FAIR WAGES FOR THEIR EMPLOYEES. THE BONUS IS, IS
THEY’RE ALSO TAKING ON DOING SUSTAINABLE FABRICS. AND THEY LIST IT AS
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION. SO THEY HAVE THINGS THAT
ARE MADE WITH TREES. THEY HAVE THINGS THAT ARE MADE
FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC BOTTLES. THEY HAVE HEMP FABRIC. THEY HAVE RECYCLED COTTON,
AND THEY HAVE ORGANIC COTTON. AND THEY EDUCATE AS THEY
SELL THEIR PRODUCTS, BECAUSE THEY REALLY
DO WANT PEOPLE TO KNOW WHAT THEY’RE PURCHASING. [ SILENCE ] H&M IS ALWAYS A TOUCHY SUBJECT
BECAUSE IT IS FAST FASHION. THE BONUS AND THE WIN TO ME IS THAT THEY HAVE A
CONSCIOUS COLLECTION. THEY DO HAVE A SUSTAINABILITY
PROGRAM THAT’S USING THEIR LARGE VOICE TO BE ABLE TO SPEAK OUT. ONE OF THE THINGS THAT SHIFTED IN THE LAST FEW WEEKS IS
THEY’RE ACTUALLY TAKING ON SHIFTING WHAT FAIR WAGE
MEANS AROUND THE WORLD, AND THEY’RE STARTING TO
ASSESS MANY OF THEIR FACTORIES TO MAKE SURE THAT WHAT THEY ARE
CONSIDERING A FAIR WAGE ACTUALLY PAYS FOR PEOPLE TO
LIVE A LIFE OF RESPECT. AND RIGHT NOW THERE
ARE SOME PLACES WHERE FAIR WAGE STILL MEANS THAT
SOMEBODY IS SLEEPING ON A FLOOR, AND IS DIRTY, AND IS NOT ABLE TO
LIVE A LIFE THAT IS RESPECTFUL. SO THEY’RE REALLY WORKING ON
NOT JUST THEIR OWN FACTORIES, BUT THE FACTORIES THAT THEY
WORK WITH, AND BRING IN AND DO MORE WORK WITH
OUTSIDE OF JUST THEIR OWN. [ SILENCE ] SO WITH THE REUSE PART, IT
WAS GREAT THAT SHE BROUGHT UP CLOTHING EXCHANGES. THIS IS ACTUALLY A
CLOTHING EXCHANGE THAT I DID AT MY OWN APARTMENT. I’VE BEEN DOING CLOTHING
EXCHANGES FOR ABOUT TEN YEARS. I FEEL LIKE IN THE LAST THREE OR FOUR YEARS THEY’VE
GOTTEN A BIT MORE POPULAR. CAN I ALSO SEE A SHOW OF HANDS OF HOW MANY PEOPLE HAVE
DONE A CLOTHING EXCHANGE, OR PARTICIPATED IN
A CLOTHING EXCHANGE? [ SILENCE ] EXCELLENT. AH, OKAY GREAT. TYPICALLY FOR ME WHENEVER I TALK ABOUT CLOTHING EXCHANGES I’M
LIKE, “OH, IT’S A BUNCH OF GIRLS THAT GET TOGETHER AND DRINK
WINE AND DO CRAZY THINGS AND, YOU KNOW, GET FREE
STUFF FROM EACH OTHER.” BUT I’VE SEEN COED
EXCHANGES COME UP. THERE’S GOOD MAGAZINE THAT’S
BASED HERE IN LA ALSO, AND GOOD MAGAZINE THAT’S
BASED HERE IN LA ALSO. AND GOOD MAGAZINE DID A
PUBLIC COED CLOTHING EXCHANGE, AND IT WAS THE MOST
AWESOME THING I HAVE SEEN IN A LONG TIME. SO IF YOU LOOK UP “GOOD MAGAZINE” THEY
ACTUALLY SHOULD HAVE PICTURES FROM THAT EVENT THAT CAN
SHOW YOU WHAT CAN BE DONE ON A LARGE SCALE. [ SILENCE ] AND I’M REALLY EXCITED
YOU GUYS ARE GOING TO BE DOING A CLOTHING
EXCHANGE SO I JUST WANTED TO SAY “YAY, THAT’S AWESOME.” [ SILENCE ] SO THAT WAS CLOTHES BEING USED
IN EXCHANGES, CLOTHES TO DIVERT FROM THE WASTE SYSTEM. THIS IS ACTUALLY CLOTHES BEING
UPCYCLED INTO NEW CLOTHES. THE — ACTUALLY THIS
RIGHT HERE — HOW MANY PEOPLE KNOW LONDON FOG OR HAVE HEARD OF
LONDON FOG COATS? [ SILENCE ] SO THESE WERE TRENCH
COATS FROM — LET’S SAY THEY WERE HUGE IN THE
’80S, AND NOW THERE ARE PEOPLE THAT ARE UP IN THE CANADA THAT ARE TURNING THEM
INTO MINI-SKORTS. AND THESE ARE DRESSES THAT
ARE MADE FROM VINTAGE FABRICS, SWEATSHIRTS THAT WERE MOST
LIKELY IN BULK AND LEFT OVER FROM OTHER COMPANIES. AND SO THEY ACTUALLY
RECYCLED THEM AS WELL. [ SILENCE ] THIS ONE IS REALLY
AMAZING TO ME. SO GREG LAUREN, HE IS
RELATED TO RALPH LAUREN, TOOK ARMY SURPLUS FABRICS FROM
TENTS AND CREATED AN ENTIRE LINE TO BE ABLE TO SELL AT
A HIGHER PRICE POINT. SO THE THINGS THAT YOU’RE
LOOKING AT ON THIS CATWALK, CAN RANGE FROM $600
TO 1,000 OR MORE. AND HE CREATED A LINE THAT’S
REALLY SOUGHT AFTER BY PEOPLE WHO CAN’T AFFORD TO PAY THAT. SO IN EACH OF THESE LINES I TRY
TO HIT DIFFERENT PRICE POINTS SO THAT YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THAT SUSTAINABLE FASHION IS
HITTING LITERALLY EVERY MARKET AND EVERY PRICE POINT. [ SILENCE ] AND THIS LINE — SO HOW
MANY PEOPLE WATCH “DANCING WITH THE STARS”, OR KNOW
WHO JULIANNE HOUGH IS? [ SILENCE ] OH, NO ONE; OKAY, INTERESTING. SO I’M A DANCEAHOLIC, AND I GOT
REALLY, REALLY EXCITED LAST WEEK BECAUSE OF THE FACT THAT SHE
IS USING HER CELEBRITY TO GET OUT THE FACT THAT A RECYCLE
COFFEE BEAN FABRIC EXISTS. AND SHE’S DOING IT IN A
PANT THAT IS REALLY CUTE. SO THE ONE THAT’S OVER HERE,
IT’S MADE BY CAFFE TECH, AND THE GREAT THING ABOUT
RECYCLED COFFEE BEAN FABRIC IS THAT IT ACTUALLY DETERS
SCENTS AND BACTERIA, AND IT’S ANTIMICROBIAL,
JUST BY DEFAULT. SO THE GREAT THING IS, IS YOU
CAN WEAR IT AS A YOGA PANT OR A SWEAT PANT, AND IT ACTUALLY
KEEPS YOU FROM SMELLING. [ SILENCE ] THIS LINE IS THE LINE
THAT I HAVE ON RIGHT NOW, AND IT’S CALLED “REFORMATION”. AND WHAT THEY’RE KNOWN FOR IS TAKING POST-COLLECTION
FASHION FABRICS. SO WHAT THAT LOOKS LIKE IS WHEN A LARGER BRAND HAS
LEFTOVER FABRICS, OR DEAD STOCK, OR OVERSTOCK, THEY
SCOOP IT UP AND MAKE IT INTO A BRAND NEW LINE. THEY’RE DOING REALLY AMAZINGLY
WELL, BOTH LOS ANGELES, AND IN NEW YORK, AND THEY
SELL AROUND THE WORLD FROM THEIR ONLINE SITE. THIS PARTICULAR COLLECTION
WAS A COMBINATION OF JAMES CAMERON’S WIFE,
SUZY AMIS, AND REFORMATION TO CREATE A LINE THAT COULD BE
WORN ON THE STREET TO A PARTY. SO IT WAS A DAY-TO-NIGHT LOOK. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO ACTUALLY
BE BROUGHT ON TO STYLE THIS. AND WHAT WAS AMAZING IS IT WAS
THE FIRST TIME THAT I WAS ABLE TO USE RECYCLED ACCESSORIES
THAT ARE MADE FROM CHANDELIERS, VEGAN SHOES. I ALSO HAD A LINE OF ACCESSORIES
THAT HAD NON-CONFLICT STONES, AND ANOTHER LINE THAT
HAD NONTOXIC METALS. SO IT WAS GREAT TO
HAVE A PLATFORM TO TALK ABOUT ALL DIFFERENT TYPES OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION
IN ONE PLACE. [ SILENCE ] THIS IS A WAY FOR
YOU TO PARTICIPATE IN SUSTAINABLE FASHION. THERE ARE MANY RECYCLE BINS
THAT EXIST IN STORES NOW. THE COMPANY ICOLLECT IS ONE OF
THE BIG ONES THAT ARE WORKING WITH H&M, THE NORTH
FACE, FOOTLOCKER. SO IF YOU DO SEE A RECYCLE
BIN, YOU CAN RECYCLE CLOTHES, AND YOU ACTUALLY GET A
PERCENTAGE OFF WITHIN THE STORE WHEN YOU DIVERT YOUR
CLOTHES OUT OF THE LANDFILL AND PUT IT IN THE RECYCLE BIN. [ SILENCE ] THIS IS WHAT PRE- AND POST-CONSUMER
TEXTILES CAN BE MADE INTO. SO THERE’S A FABRIC BRAND THAT
ACTUALLY TAKES UNIFORM SCRAPS — SO WHEN THEY MAKE A T-SHIRT
OR A UNIFORM, THE SCRAPS — THE CUTTING ROOM SCRAPS CAN
ACTUALLY BE GROUND BACK UP AND MADE INTO A FABRIC. AND THIS IS RECOVERED TEXTILE. NOW, ON THE SITE, IT SAYS,
“PRE-” AND “POST-CONSUMER”, SO IT’S PRE-CONSUMER
IT’S THINGS THAT ARE FROM THE ACTUAL MANUFACTURING
PLANT. THE POST-CONSUMER IS CLOTHES
FROM THE RECYCLE BINS. I HAPPEN TO KNOW THAT
THEY’RE ONLY CONCENTRATING ON THE PRE-CONSUMER RIGHT
NOW, BUT THEY’RE WORKING TO DO THE POST-CONSUMER SOON. THE ONLY COMPANY I’VE
SEEN SO FAR THAT’S ABLE TO DO THE POST-CONSUMER IS
PATAGONIA RECYCLES FLEECE INTO FLEECE AGAIN. SO THAT’S ONE OF THE ONES THAT’S
BEEN EXTREMELY SUCCESSFUL. [ SILENCE ] THIS WAS A PANEL THAT
I DID IN NOVEMBER. THE FIRST PERSON UP HERE,
THAT’S ANDREW MORGAN. HE’S THE WRITER/DIRECTOR
FROM “THE TRUE COST”. THE SECOND PERSON IS
SHONA FROM EILEEN FISHER. SO HOW MANY PEOPLE HAVE HEARD
OF THE BRAND EILEEN FISHER? EXCELLENT. SO ONE THING TO REALLY NOTE ABOUT HER IS NOT ONLY
IS SHE REALLY FOCUSED ON CREATING HER BRAND
TO BE SUSTAINABLE, BUT SHE’S ALSO WORKING WITH
OTHER BRANDS TO HELP THEM TO BE SUSTAINABLE AS WELL. SHE’S WORKING WITH THE CFDA
TO HELP TO GET SCHOLARSHIPS TO STUDENTS WHO WANT TO
FOCUS ON SUSTAINABLE FASHION. AND SHE’S EVEN DOING A PROGRAM
WITH [INAUDIBLE] RIGHT NOW, AND IT’S AMAZING JUST TO
SEE ALL THE DIFFERENT WAYS THAT SHE’S GIVING BACK
SO THAT SHE CAN MAKE SURE THAT SUSTAINABLE FASHION GROWS. THIS PERSON RIGHT HERE,
HER NAME IS SUSANA. SHE’S BEEN SOMEBODY WHO IS DOING
A SUSTAINABLE FASHION PROGRAM WITHIN LOS ANGELES,
AND SHE’S REALLY GREAT ABOUT CREATING COMMUNITY
AND HELPING TO GET ALL OF US DESIGNERS TOGETHER
UNDER ONE ROOF. AND THIS IS CATHLEEN,
WHO’S THE HEAD OF SUSTAINABILITY
AT REFORMATION. AND ROBIN DOES AN EVENT CALLED
“TAKE BACK YOUR HEALTH”. NOW, ROBIN GAVE ME THE
OPPORTUNITY TO TALK ABOUT THE TOXIC CHEMICALS
THIS PAST WEEKEND THAT ARE IN FASHION DESIGN. AND IT’S AMAZING TO BE ABLE
TO RELATE THE TOXIC CHEMICALS IN FASHION WITH YOUR
HEALTH AND SOMEBODY’S HEALTH THAT YOU’RE NOT GOING TO MEET. SO I’M REALLY GRATEFUL
FOR HER TO GIVE ME THAT TYPE OF OPPORTUNITY. [ SILENCE ] THIS IS A FEW PICTURES FROM THE
EVENT THAT WE DID IN NOVEMBER. AND IT WAS REALLY AMAZING,
BECAUSE TO HAVE STUDENTS, EXPERTS, AND DESIGNERS
HAVE A SPACE TO SHARE WITHIN A SMALL SPACE, IT WAS
REALLY GREAT BECAUSE THERE WERE SO MANY DIFFERENT QUESTIONS
THAT WERE BROUGHT UP BEING ABLE TO TALK ABOUT VEGAN FASHION. CAN I SEE A SHOW
OF HANDS OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE HEARD OF VEGAN FASHION? [ SILENCE ] OKAY; FAST FASHION? [ SILENCE ] RIGHT; THEY’RE MADE TO BE BROKEN SO THAT YOU HAVE
A HIGH TURNOVER. SO IT WAS AMAZING TO HAVE
PEOPLE THAT ARE DOING THINGS THAT ARE SLOW FASHION WITH
PEOPLE THAT ARE ABLE TO TALK ABOUT FAST FASHION AND
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE RELATIONSHIP TO YOUR
CLOTHES, LIKE IF YOU BUY IT JUST TO TOSS IT, VERSUS
HAVING SOMETHING THAT HAS A REALLY
WONDERFUL STORY THAT YOU COULD JUST
SHARE WITH PEOPLE. [ SILENCE ] WE WERE LUCKY ENOUGH TO GET THE
FRONT COVER OF APPAREL NEWS, WHICH IS ALSO GREAT BECAUSE
THERE ARE BRANDS OUT THERE THAT STILL DON’T KNOW
ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION. THEY COULD BE LARGE-SCALE,
THEY COULD BE SMALL, BUT THIS WAS ONE STEP
IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION TO GET THEM INFORMED
THAT THESE TYPES OF CONVERSATIONS ARE HAPPENING. [ SILENCE ] AND I LEFT SOME FLIERS OUTSIDE,
AND I’LL BE ABLE TO HAND THESE OUT WHENEVER I’M FINISHED
SPEAKING, JUST SO THAT IF YOU WANT MORE INFORMATION,
YOU CAN GET MORE INFORMATION ABOUT BEYOND THE LABEL AND
BEING ABLE TO GO TO EVENTS THAT I’M GOING TO BE PUTTING
ON THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. I KNOW IN SEPTEMBER
WE’RE GOING TO BE PUTTING ON A HUGE FASHION SHOW
WITH SUSTAINABLE DESIGNERS, AND AN AWARD CEREMONY TO BE ABLE
TO RECOGNIZE A LOT OF DESIGNERS THAT ARE DOING REALLY
INCREDIBLE THINGS. [ SILENCE ]>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: WELL, I’M FROM ONE OF YOUR SISTER CAMPUSES,
SO I’M VERY HAPPY THAT WE’RE ALL HERE TONIGHT, AND
THAT WE DID NOT GO ON STRIKE. THE CSU DIDN’T DO THAT. SO I’M GLAD THEY
WERE ABLE TO SETTLE SO WE COULD BE HERE
THIS EVENING. SO I’M PROUDLY DISPLAYING MY
SAN FRANCISCO STATE LABEL HERE, BRANDING FOR YOU FOR THAT. AND I’M GOING TO CONTINUE
ON THE CONVERSATION THAT TARYN GRACIOUSLY
PRESENTED US WITH, WITH IDEAS ABOUT RETHINKING
WAYS NOT AS A WASTE, NOT AS A BAD THING, BUT YOU
DESIGNERS THINKING OF IT AS A RESOURCE, A GOOD THING. SO WE’RE INTO RECYCLE,
REDUCE, REUSE, REFUSE. AND WHAT I WANT YOU
TO UNDERSTAND IS THAT THIS IS NOT A NEW PROBLEM. DO YOU REMEMBER — HAVE YOU
EVER TAKEN A HISTORY CLASS WHERE THEY’VE TALKED ABOUT
THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION? WELL, WHAT WAS THE PURPOSE OF THE INDUSTRIAL
REVOLUTION; SOMEBODY, ANYBODY. CALL IT OUT. YES.>>MAKING MONEY.>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: [LAUGHS] OKAY; TO MAKE IT MORE — HAVE MORE
OF IT ACCESSIBLE FOR PEOPLE. SO THIS IS NOT —
[CLEARS THROAT] EXCUSE ME, THIS IS NOT A NEW PROBLEM. WHAT WE’RE AT A TIME NOW IS THAT
WE ARE GRACIOUSLY LOOKING AT IT, AND WE’RE CALLING OUT TO ALL
YOU NEW DESIGNERS TO, AGAIN, NOT SEE NO DAMAGE,
HEAR NO DAMAGE. WE CAN’T DO THAT ANYMORE. WE MUST RECOGNIZE THAT
WASTE IS A RESOURCE. [ SILENCE ] SO WHAT I’M GOING TO ASK YOU
RIGHT NOW IS WHAT WE DID — TARYN WAS TALKING ABOUT THIS,
AND I’M TALKING ABOUT IT, WELL WHAT’S A TEXTILE? WHAT IS A TEXTILE PRODUCT? [ SILENCE ] GIVE ME AN EXAMPLE
OF ONE, OR TWO.>>COTTON T-SHIRT.>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: A T-SHIRT. [ SILENCE ]>>DENIM.>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: DENIM? [ SILENCE ] INTERIOR DESIGN PEOPLE, WHAT’S
A TEXTILE PRODUCT THAT YOU USE? [ INAUDIBLE COMMENT ] SAY IT AGAIN? [ INAUDIBLE COMMENT ] I JUST COULDN’T HEAR IT.>>UPHOLSTERY?>>DR. CONSTANCE ULASEWICZ:
YES; THE FABRIC THAT’S GOING ON THE UPHOLSTERY, THE FABRIC
THAT’S WITHIN THE UPHOLSTERY. ANYBODY DRIVE AN AUTOMOBILE? THE LID OF THE AUTOMOBILE,
THAT PULP, THAT REALLY, REALLY TINY PULP THAT ALSO GOES
UNDER FLOORING, TEXTILE PRODUCT. ANYBODY HERE WEARING UNDERWEAR? ANYBODY HERE WEARING SOCKS? TEXTILE PRODUCTS. YES; THEY’RE ALL
TEXTILE PRODUCTS. SO WHAT WE’RE LOOKING
AT HERE IS THE CONCEPT OF WHAT’S BEEN CALLED “WASTE”. AND SO I’M HERE TO TELL YOU
THAT WHERE TARYN WAS TALKING ABOUT THE NEW WAY THAT
PEOPLE ARE DESIGNING, I’M FILLING IN FROM THE
END OF HER CONVERSATION ABOUT THIS IDEA OF WASTE. SO THE US ENVIRONMENTAL
PROTECTION AGENCY, OR THE EPA — EPA.ORG, GO ON THAT
WEBSITE, THEY HAVE A LOT OF GREAT INFORMATION FOR YOU. NEARLY FIVE PERCENT OF ALL
LANDFILL WASTE IS TEXTILE WASTE. IT IS POSSIBLE — HAS ANYBODY
EVER THROWN ANY TEXTILE PRODUCT IN THE TRASH CAN? YES. COULD BE A SOCK, IT
COULD BE THAT ONE SOCK, OR IT COULD BE THE
SHIRT THAT YOU — THE BUTTON CAME OFF OF AND YOU
DON’T KNOW WHAT TO DO OF IT, AND YOU JUST KIND OF THROW IT
THERE; WHATEVER IT MIGHT BE. TEXTILE WASTE IS
AT FIVE PERCENT. WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF LANDFILL? THE PURPOSE OF LANDFILL IS TO
PUT THINGS IN THERE IN SOME KIND OF A PLASTIC LINING SO
THAT IT WILL NOT SEEP OUT INTO THE ENVIRONMENT. WELL, YOU PUT SOME OF THIS
TEXTILE WASTE IN THERE, IT IS NEVER GOING TO CHANGE. A HUNDRED YEARS FROM NOW,
IT’S STILL GOING TO BE THERE. LANDFILL IS NOT THE
APPROPRIATE PLACE FOR US TO BE PUTTING TEXTILES. [ SILENCE ] SO ARE CLOTHING — AND
THE CONCEPT OF FASHION — THE DIFFERENT BETWEEN
FASHION AND CLOTHING — AND I TEND TO TALK ABOUT IT AS
CLOTHING, APPAREL, INTERIORS, WHEN I’M TALKING
ABOUT THESE TEXTILES. BUT THERE’S AN ESTIMATED 150
— WHERE’S MY LITTLE GUY HERE; 150 MILLION ARTICLES OF CLOTHING
— 100 ARE PRODUCED EACH YEAR. THE GOOD THING IS THIS IS A
GOOD INDUSTRY; LOTS OF JOBS, LOTS OF ROOMS FOR CHANGE
WITHIN THIS INDUSTRY. SOMEONE HAD ASKED THE
CONCEPT EARLIER — I THINK YOU HAD ASKED A QUESTION ABOUT THE LIFE CYCLE
AND HOW THAT WORKED. SO BASICALLY HERE THIS
IS THE TRADITIONAL — HAVE YOU HEARD OF THE CRADLE TO
GRAVE MODEL IN OTHER THINGS; NO? OKAY. A CRADLE TO GRAVE MODEL IS
LIKE IF YOU THINK OF AN INFANT, AN INFANT COMES IN A CRADLE,
AND WE CRADLE THEM TO US, AND A GRAVE IS WHAT
SOME PEOPLE ARE PUT IN WHEN THE END OF THEIR LIFE. WE DO THAT WITH TEXTILE PRODUCTS
AND WITH OTHER PRODUCTS ALSO. SO THE IDEA IS THAT WE BEGIN
WITH SOMETHING THAT’S NEW. THEN WE MOVE IT FROM A FIBER. SO WHAT’S A FIBER
— A TEXTILE FIBER THAT YOU MIGHT HAVE HEARD OF;
HAS ANYBODY HEARD OF COTTON? AND DOES COTTON GROW
ON AN ANIMAL? [ INAUDIBLE RESPONSES ] NO. WHAT GROWS ON AN ANIMAL
THAT’S ANOTHER ONE YOU MIGHT HAVE HEARD OF?>>WOOL.>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: WOOL. SO THOSE ARE NEW FIBERS. SO IT COULD BE THAT THE CRADLE
TO GRAVE IS TALKING ABOUT ONE OF THOSE, OR IT COULD BE TALKING
ABOUT A POLYESTER OR NYLON. AND THEN WHAT HAPPENS IS WE
NEED TO MAKE IT INTO A YARN, AND MAKE IT INTO A GARMENT. THAT GARMENT THEN GETS
DISTRIBUTED, AND IT GETS SOLD. IT COULD GET SOLD
ONLINE, IT COULD GET SOLD IN A TRADITIONAL RETAIL STORE. AND THEN WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT,
YOU KNOW, YOU GO INTO A STORE AND IT’S 100%, THEN IT’S
MARKED DOWN, AND IT’S 50% OFF, AND THEN IT’S 100% OFF. AND THEN WHAT DO THEY DO IF
THEY DON’T WANT IT ANYMORE, OR THEY — IF THEY NEED
TO BRING IN MERCHANDISE? WHERE DOES IT GO? [ INAUDIBLE RESPONSE ] SAY IT A LITTLE LOUDER.>>DISCOUNT CHAIN?>>DR. CONSTANCE ULASEWICZ: SO
IT COULD GO TO A DISCOUNT CHAIN, AND WHEN THE DISCOUNT
CHAIN CAN’T SELL IT ALL, WHAT DO THEY DO WITH IT? [ INAUDIBLE COMMENT ] SO THERE IS A WHOLE INDUSTRY
THAT’S CALLED A RAGGING INDUSTRY, AND IT CAN GO
INTO A RAGGING INDUSTRY. AND KEEP THAT THOUGHT; WE’RE
GOING TO GO THERE A LITTLE BIT DOWN IN THE INDUSTRY
— IN THE INDUSTRY, IN MY CONVERSATION TONIGHT. BUT HOW MANY OF YOU ALSO
BRING THINGS TO A GOODWILL, TO A SALVATION ARMY; ANYBODY? SO THAT’S A LOT OF YOU, YES. THANK YOU. ALSO, TO NOTE, THEY WILL
TAKE YOUR SINGLE SOCK. [LAUGHTER] THEY WANT YOUR
SHIRTS WITHOUT BUTTONS; BECAUSE THEY HAVE CONNECTIONS WITH WHAT YOUR FELLOW
CLASSMATE JUST SAID DOWN THERE ABOUT JOBBERS. THEY KNOW OTHER PEOPLE, THEY
KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH THIS. SO GIVE THEM THOSE;
THEY WANT THOSE. BUT THEN AT THE END WHAT HAPPENS
HERE IS THAT THIS WORD HERE, WE WANT TO TAKE THAT WORD AWAY. WE CAN’T DO THIS ANYMORE. SO THIS IS — I AM FROM
THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA, SAN FRANCISCO STATE,
AS YOU KNOW. AND SO WHAT YOU’RE
SEEING HERE IS THAT YOU’RE SEEING
LANDFILL; RIGHT? SO LANDFILL, WHY DO WE HAVE
THIS, BECAUSE AT THIS POINT IN TIME I KNOW ONE CITY IN THE UNITED STATES
THAT’S COLLECTING TEXTILES. DO YOU KNOW WHAT CITY THAT IS? [ SILENCE ] [ INAUDIBLE COMMENT ] YES. SO THIS IS A RECYCLING
BIN THAT’S HAPPENING IN SAN FRANCISCO. THESE ARE OUR BINS. I DON’T KNOW WHAT — I
SAW ONE RECYCLE BIN HERE, BUT TRADITIONALLY IN THE SAN
FRANCISCO BAY AREA WE HAVE A BLACK BIN, WHICH THEY CALL
“WASTE”, WE HAVE A GREEN BIN, WHICH THEY CALL — AND
THEN WE HAVE A BLUE BIN. THE BLUE BIN IS WHERE YOU PUT
PAPER, AND CANS, AND GLASS. AND THE GREEN BIN
IS WHERE YOU PUT –>>COMPOST?>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: COMPOST; YES. AND SO IN THE CITY OF SAN
FRANCISCO THAT CAN BE YOUR — IT CAN BE YOUR EGGSHELLS,
IT CAN BE YOUR BROCCOLI, IT CAN BE YOUR HAMBONE,
WHATEVER IT IS, PLUS ANY OTHER WASTE
THAT YOU HAVE. SO WHAT THEY’RE DOING IS THEY’RE
STARTING TO COLLECT TEXTILES. [ SILENCE ] I DON’T SUPPORT THIS. [ SILENCE ] COLLECTING TEXTILES AND SHIPPING
THEM TO LANDFILL TAKES AWAY FROM YOU TO COME UP WITH
A NEW DESIGN, AND THINKING OF THESE AS A RESOURCE. THE PEOPLE THAT TARYN
WAS TELLING YOU ABOUT THAT ARE TAKING
FABRICS AND REUSING THEM, THAT’S WHAT WE SHOULD BE DOING. IS OUR — IS THIS
JUST OUR PROBLEM, OR IS THIS A GLOBAL PROBLEM? I WOULD TELL YOU THAT
THIS IS A GLOBAL PROBLEM. I’M SHOWING YOU AN AREA
IN DAMASCUS, SYRIA. HOW DID ALL THIS FABRIC GET
THERE THAT’S POST-CONSUMER, MEANING AS TARYN WAS
SAYING, IT’S — YOU HAD IT — [ SILENCE ] YOU GAVE IT AWAY, YOU GAVE IT
TO GOODWILL, YOU THREW IT OUT. THIS IS NOT LANDFILL,
THIS IS WHAT CAME FROM US. [ SILENCE ] IN A MOMENT I’LL SHOW
YOU HOW THAT GOT THERE. BUT FOR RIGHT NOW THERE; THE
CONCEPT OF DISCARDING HAS TO GO AWAY FROM OUR VOCABULARY. AGAIN, IT’S DESIGNING NOT
FROM CRADLE TO CRADLE — FROM CRADLE TO GRAVE, EXCUSE
ME, IT’S DESIGNING FROM CRADLE TO CRADLE, SO THAT
EVERYTHING IS DESIGNED WITH ANOTHER LIFE IN MIND. SO THIS IS WHAT HAPPENED IN
THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO. THIS WAS WITH ICO [PHONETIC]
THAT TARYN INTRODUCED YOU, AND THESE ARE THE
TRASH BINS THAT ARE — WERE IN THE CITY
OF SAN FRANCISCO. AND DROP YOUR CLOTHING AND SHOES
OFF, TAKE A MOMENT TO FEEL GOOD ABOUT MAKING A DIFFERENCE. YES; IT’S GOOD THAT
YOU MADE A DIFFERENCE, YOUR ITEMS WILL FIND A HOME,
OR REUSED AND RECYCLED. AND THIS IS WHAT I
WANT YOU TO REMEMBER. IF I SAY THAT YOUR GARMENTS
WENT INTO A COOL NEW PRODUCT, WHAT MIGHT YOU THINK
THAT COULD BE? WHAT’S A COOL NEW PRODUCT? [ INAUDIBLE RESPONSE ] A WHAT? ONE OF THOSE OTHER
DESIGNERS THAT TARYN SHOWED YOU; THAT WILL BE A COOL NEW PRODUCT. KEEP THAT THOUGHT
FOR ONE SECOND. I’LL SHOW YOU WHERE
IT WENT IN A SECOND. OKAY. IF WHAT I’M TELLING YOU
HERE IS 22,000 TONS ARE ANNUALLY THROWN OUT, THAT COMES DOWN TO
IN THE UNITED STATES EVERY HOUR ABOUT 4,000 POUNDS OF TEXTILES
ARE DISCARDED; 4,000 POUNDS. IF WE HAVE 100 PEOPLE IN
THIS ROOM, AND YOU THINK ABOUT THE WEIGHT OF THE
CLOTHING THAT YOU HAVE ON, YOU HAVE T-SHIRTS, YOU
MIGHT HAVE UNDERWEAR, YOU MIGHT HAVE PANTS,
YOU MIGHT HAVE SOCKS, YOU MIGHT HAVE SHOES. [ SILENCE ] HAS ANYBODY EVER THOUGHT YOU
GO THE SCALE BEFORE YOU GET IN THE SHOWER, BECAUSE YOU
KNOW WHEN YOU PUT YOUR CLOTHING ON YOU’RE GOING TO WEIGH MORE? OR AM I THE ONLY
ONE THAT DOES THAT? [LAUGHTER] SO YOUR CLOTHES
MAY WEIGHT TWO TO FIVE POUNDS. SO LET’S TAKE AN AVERAGE
OF THAT OF THREE POUNDS. SO IF THERE’S 100 PEOPLE
SITTING IN THIS ROOM, MAYBE, THREE POUNDS OF CLOTHING,
THAT’S JUST 300 POUNDS. [ SILENCE ] THERE’S 4,000 POUNDS
THAT ARE DISCARDED IN THE UNITED STATES EVERY
HOUR GOING TO LANDFILL. [ SILENCE ] THAT NEEDS TO COME
INTO YOUR HANDS SO THAT YOU CAN DESIGN
SOMETHING NEW WITH IT, THINKING OF IT AS A RESOURCE. THIS IS THE COOL NEW PRODUCT. THIS IS CALLED “SHODDY”. IF YOU HEAR THAT WORD, WHAT
HAPPENS IS THAT WHEN YOU GIVE — EXCUSE ME, WHEN YOU
DONATE AND YOU FEEL GOOD ABOUT DONATING YOUR
PRODUCTS TO OTHER PLACES, AT LIKE A GOODWILL, LIKE A
SALVATION ARMY, LIKE AN ICO BIN, YES THAT IS WONDERFUL
BECAUSE YOU’RE NOT PUTTING IT INTO TRASH. BUT WE TODAY, AND GOING
INTO THE 21ST CENTURY, WE HAVE TO TAKE A RESPONSIBILITY
FOR UNDERSTANDING THAT 20% OF WHAT YOU DONATE
TO GOODWILL IS SOLD. WHY IS IT ONLY 20%? [ SILENCE ] BECAUSE YOU’RE DONATING
THE SOCK THAT WAS ONE SOCK, THEY WILL TAKE, AND THAT’S OKAY; BECAUSE YOU DIDN’T WASH
THE SHIRT BEFORE — BECAUSE YOU JUST GAVE IT TO THEM
AND IT WAS DIRTY; OR BECAUSE, AGAIN, STORES LIKE H&M THAT
AS WAS PREVIOUSLY STATED, HAVE CLOTHING THAT PEOPLE
ARE BUYING THAT HAS ONE LIFE. SO IT GETS TORN, IT GETS — GOES AWAY EASILY,
AND IT GETS DONATED. THAT — THIS IS GOOD, THOUGH. AND I’M NOT SAYING
THIS IS A BAD THING. IT IS A GOOD THING. WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF GOODWILL? DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT — IS THE PURPOSE OF
GOODWILL TO SELL CLOTHING?>>NO.>>DR. CONSTANCE ULASEWICZ: NO. [ INAUDIBLE COMMENT ] RIGHT; IT’S TO CREATE JOBS. YES; THE PURPOSE OF
GOODWILL IS TO CREATE JOBS. AND I WORK A LOT WITH
GOODWILL SAN FRANCISCO, AND THEY’RE A REAL PARTNER
OF OUR DESIGN STUDENTS, BECAUSE WHAT THEY DO IS GOODWILL
CREATES JOBS OF SORTING, OR REPAIRING, OF FIXING
HOW TO DRIVE A TRUCK, HOW TO WORK WITH THE PUBLIC. AND THAT’S WHAT THEY DO IN
THAT FACILITY; WITH OUR STUFF THAT WE DON’T WANT ANYMORE. OKAY; 80% AS THE
TERM WAS BROUGHT — IS SOLD TO TEXTILES RECYCLERS. THIS IS A TERM THAT I — PROBABLY MOST OF
YOU HAVEN’T THOUGHT ABOUT BEFORE, A TEXTILE
RECYCLER. THESE ARE THE PEOPLE
THAT THE BIG THING THAT THEY DO IS THEY MAKE RAGS. THERE’S A WHOLE RAG INDUSTRY
OUT THERE, PEOPLE THAT MAKE — THAT USE RAGS FOR
CLEANING, FOR WIPING. IF YOU’RE IN A RESTAURANT
BUSINESS, RAGS ARE USED. SO THE TEXTILE RECYCLERS ARE
ALSO THE PEOPLE THAT ARE TRYING TO FIND THE GOOD STUFF, THE
STUFF THAT IS THE PRODUCT THAT WE WERE TALKING
ABOUT EARLIER, THE STUFF THAT IS
THE EILEEN FISHER, THE STUFF THAT IS THE
YVES SAINT LAURENT. THEY’RE TRYING TO FIND
THE GOOD STUFF TOO SO THEY CAN MAKE MONEY. BUT 80% GOES THERE. THEY SELL AND USE ABOUT 40%. THE OTHER 40% GOES
TO THESE PLACES. WE FEEL SO GOOD ABOUT OUR
WASTE THAT WE EXPORT IT TO OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD. AND WHAT YOU’RE SEEING HERE IS
THE MITUMBA MARKET IN AFRICA; BECAUSE WE THINK THEY
NEED OUR CLOTHING. WE HAVE RUINED TEXTILE
INDUSTRIES IN OTHER COUNTRIES BECAUSE WE’VE DONE THIS. BECAUSE WE HAVE NOT CONSCIOUSLY
THOUGHT ABOUT, “OKAY; WHEN I BUY THIS, WHAT AM
I GOING TO DO WITH IT? HOW LONG IS IT GOING
TO LIVE WITH ME?” AND WHAT HAPPENS IS I HAVE
A MAP HERE TO SHOW YOU WHERE IN THE WORLD THE
DISCARDED CLOTHING GOES. AND WHAT DO YOU NOTICE
ABOUT THIS COUNTRY AND THIS COUNTRY THAT’S
THE ORANGE OR THE COUNTRIES WHERE THE CLOTHING IS
BAILED UP AND GOES OFF TO? [ SILENCE ] ARE THESE THE REGIONS OF
THE WORLD THAT WE THINK OF AS BEING ECONOMIES
THAT ARE HIGH? [ SILENCE ] NO. SO WHAT HAPPENS
IS THAT THE COUNTRIES WHERE THE BAILS ORIGINATED
ARE ALL IN THE BLUE. AND LOOK AT US OVER HERE. AND WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT WE
SHIP OUR WASTE TO OTHER REGIONS OF THE WORLD SO THAT
THEY CAN SELL IT. AND THAT WAS THAT PICTURE I
SHOWED YOU SEVERAL SLIDES AGO ABOUT WHAT WAS HAPPENING
IN DAMASCUS. THAT WAS OUR STUFF. THIS IS WHY SOMETIMES
WHEN YOU WATCH THE NEWS AND THEY’RE SHOWING YOU PARTS
OF AFRICA, OR PARTS OF INDIA, AND YOU SEE A KID AND THEY’RE
WEARING A BRITNEY SPEARS T-SHIRT, AND YOU GO, “HOW THE
HECK DID THEY GET THAT T-SHIRT,” THIS IS HOW THEY
GET THOSE THINGS. IT’S OUR STUFF. AND WHAT’S HAPPENING NOW
IS IT’S SURFACING MORE. AND THESE BAILS ARE JUST
SITTING THERE NOT BEING SOLD. IT’S NOT NEEDED ANYMORE. SO IT’S ALL OF US, AGAIN,
TAKING RESPONSIBILITY, SEEING THIS AS A RESOURCE, AND RETHINKING WHAT WAS
WASTE AT ONE POINT IN TIME. SO WE NEED TO EMBRACE WHAT
WE PURCHASE, WHAT WE NEED. AND WE NEED TO THINK ABOUT
HOW WE CAN EXTEND THAT. [ SILENCE ] THE BOOK, “SUSTAINABLE FASHION”,
WE’RE LOOKING AT NOT — WE’RE TIRED OF THINKING
ABOUT PROBLEMS, PROBLEMS, HOW CAN WE SOLVE THE PROBLEM? LET’S FOCUS ON SOLUTIONS, AND
WHAT CAN WE DO, HOW CAN WE KEEP THAT OUT OF TRASH BINS? AND I KNOW MYSELF EVEN
WITH PAPER I GO, “OH, GEE, I PRINTED THIS; I
OVERPRINTED IT. I’M GLAD THERE’S A RECYCLE BIN.” WELL, THAT’S NOT
REALLY THE WAY TO GO. THAT’S — I MEAN, REPRINTING
IT AND NOT THINKING ABOUT IT BECAUSE THERE’S A RECYCLE
BIN DOESN’T SOLVE — DOESN’T CREATE A SOLUTION. AND THAT’S WHAT THIS IS ABOUT. SO WHAT WE’RE NEEDING IS
WHAT I’M CALLING HERE, WHICH IS THE CRADLE
TO CRADLE SUPPLY HERE. IT’S A CONTINUOUS LOOP. IT DOESN’T GET BORN AND
THEN GET PUT INTO DAMASCUS, SYRIA FOR THEM TO WORRY ABOUT. IT’S OURS. SO WHAT YOU HAVE HERE
IS THAT THE CONCEPT OF IDENTIFYING A
DISCARDED TABLECLOTH — EXCUSE ME, I’M GOING TO DO
— I’M AHEAD OF MYSELF THERE, COLLECTING, SORTING, DESIGNING,
TRAINING THE FACTORY, MARKETING AND SELLING IT, AND
THEN REUSING IT. SO WHEN YOU DESIGNERS OUT HERE, WHEN YOU’RE DESIGNING
YOUR NEW PRODUCTS, IF YOU’RE DESIGNING A TABLE,
CONSIDER DO YOU NEED THE GLUE, WILL THE GLUE BREAK DOWN? CAN YOU HAVE A WOODEN INSTEAD
OF A METAL PART OF THAT TABLE? I MEAN, WHEN IT GETS
INTO ITS NEXT LIFE, HOW COULD THAT BE BROKEN DOWN? WHAT NEXT WILL IT BE USED FOR? THE THREE DEFINITIONS, THE THREE
WORDS THAT GET MISUSED A LOT, “RECYCLE, REUSE, RESALE”. SO THERE’S A REAL DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN RECYCLE AND REUSE. WE’RE USED TO THIS RECYCLE. DID ANYBODY — DO YOU REMEMBER WHEN WE DIDN’T RECYCLE
NEWSPAPER? DOES ANYBODY OUT
HERE LIVE AT A TIME WHEN YOU DIDN’T RECYCLE
NEWSPAPER; WHEN YOU TOOK YOUR
CANS AND YOUR PAPER AND YOU THREW IT IN THE TRASH? [ SILENCE ] AND THEN PEOPLE STARTED GIVING
YOU — DOES ANYBODY GET — DID ANYBODY EVER GET MONEY,
THE FIVE CENT FOR YOUR CAN OR YOUR GLASS; ANYBODY
REMEMBER THAT? SOME PEOPLE REMEMBER THAT. SO REMEMBER THAT AS A
SOLUTION ABOUT YOUR TEXTILES. WHAT ABOUT IF THAT SINGLE — IF
TWO SOCKS GOT YOU A DIME BACK, MAYBE ONE SOCK WOULD
GET YOU A NICKEL BACK? TEXTILES ARE VALUABLE. THEY’RE NOT JUNK. THEY’RE VALUABLE. SO RECYCLE, TO TURN IT INTO ITS
CYCLICAL PROCESS THE EXAMPLE THAT WAS GIVEN BEFORE TO
YOU IS PATAGONIA AND FLEECE. FLEECE OFTEN MADE OUT OF
POLYESTER CAN BE MELTED BACK DOWN AND CAN BE EXTRUDED BACK
OUT, AND CAN BE MADE AGAIN INTO THAT FLEECE, AND THAT
CAN BE A CONTINUOUS PROCESS FOR THAT. TO REUSE SOMETHING IS THE IDEA
OF REPAIRING IT, REDESIGNING IT. THE TERM “UPCYCLE”
IS USED SOMETIMES. IF YOU TAKE A PRODUCT
THAT HAD A LOW PRICE POINT AND YOU’RE GOING UPCYCLE IT, REUSE IT TO MAKE SOMETHING
THAT’S A HIGHER PRICE POINT, AND THEN RESELL. SO THIS CONCEPT OF WHAT
YOU’RE DOING ON THIS CAMPUS, YOU’RE HAVING THE CLOTHING SWAP,
YOU’RE RESELLING THOSE GOODS. SO, FOR EXAMPLE, THIS
IS EILEEN FISHER. SO YOU CAN’T TELL IN THE BACK, BUT EILEEN FISHER WAS ALWAYS
— ALREADY BROUGHT UP. EILEEN FISHER IS A MANUFACTURER
THAT TAKES RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT SHE IS MANUFACTURING. SHE SELLS IT AND SHE
SAYS, “GIVE IT BACK TO ME. WHEN YOU ARE FINISHED WITH
IT, GIVE IT BACK TO ME.” SHE WILL REUSE IT, SHE WILL GIVE
IT TO OTHER PEOPLE IN OTHER — WHERE SHE’S MANUFACTURING
HER GOODS SO THEY CAN USE IT. OR SHE WILL BREAK IT
DOWN AND RECYCLE IT. ANOTHER EXAMPLE FROM
THE BAY AREA IS LEVI. SO LEVI STRAUSS HAD
THIS FABULOUS EVENT WHERE WHAT THEY DID
IS THAT THEY — WE WERE OPENING UP THE NEW
SAN FRANCISCO STADIUM THAT WAS IN SAN JOSE AND NO LONGER IN
THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO. AND THEY COVERED THE
ENTIRE STADIUM WITH JEANS THAT WERE DONATED TO THEM. AND THEN THOSE DENIM
JEANS WENT TO GOODWILL, AND GOODWILL SOLD THEM. SO WHAT THEY WERE SAYING IS,
“GIVE ME WHAT YOU DON’T WANT, I’LL FIND A USE FOR THEM.” SO IT’S PROFIT, NONPROFIT
COMING TOGETHER AND DOING GOOD. [ SILENCE ] WHAT MY IDEA HERE, AND
WHERE I WANT TO TAKE YOU IS WHERE I THINK WE SHOULD GO. AND I — YOU CAN THINK ABOUT
THIS, YOU CAN WRITE ABOUT IT, YOU CAN GIVE US COMMENTS BACK
WHEN WE DO QUESTIONS AT THE END. BUT I THINK THAT WE NEED
A ONE, TWO, THREE SYSTEM. DO YOU REMEMBER — OR DO YOU — ON YOUR PLASTICS THERE ARE
THESE TRIANGLES THAT SAY — HAVE NUMBERS INSIDE OF THEM? AND THEY’RE SUPPOSED
TO HAVE A MEANING OF THOSE NUMBERS CAN BE RECYCLED
IN THESE BINS AND THOSE — WE CAN DO THAT IN
THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY. NOT EVERYTHING IS EQUAL. SO I HAVE A NUMBERING
SYSTEM, A VALUE SYSTEM THAT I’M CALLING A
ONE, TWO, AND THREE. AND I THINK THAT WE ARE
CLOSE TO THE POINT IN TIME WHEN WHAT YOU BUY WILL
HAVE A NUMBERING SYSTEM, JUST LIKE IN THE
PLASTIC INDUSTRY. AND SOMEBODY THAT KNOWS
WHAT THEY’RE DOING IS GOING TO SAY THIS GARMENT
HERE SHOULD BE RECYCLED. COULD BE BECAUSE IT’S
A POLYESTER FABRIC, COULD BE BECAUSE
IT’S A NYLON FABRIC. IT COULD BE MELTED BACK DOWN. IT CAN BE REMADE INTO ANOTHER
— IT DOESN’T GO INTO LANDFILL. IT WILL NEVER BREAK DOWN. THAT’S THE WORST
PLACE FOR IT TO BE. WHEREAS A NUMBER TWO COULD
BE SOMETHING THAT BECAUSE OF THE PRODUCT, FIBERS,
AND/OR GARMENT CONSTRUCTION, IT SHOULD BE REDESIGNED
INTO ANOTHER PRODUCT. TO TAKE THAT AND MAKE THAT
SHODDY, THAT FELTED MATERIAL THAT — IS ALMOST SINFUL. IT’S WASTEFUL, BECAUSE
THE VALUE OF IT IS SUCH. AND THEN THE LAST ONE IS
THIS CONCEPT OF REUSE. SO WHAT I’M GOING TO SHARE WITH YOU NOW IS THE
TABLECLOTH PROJECT. THE TABLECLOTH PROJECT
I STARTED — I TEACH CLASS IN PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT, AND I TEACH A CLASS IN SUSTAINABILITY,
AND I TEACH A CLASS IN SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURSHIP. SO WHAT YOU SEE HERE
IS TABLECLOTHS. HOTEL INDUSTRY, IN THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO THE WAY THEY
MAKE MONEY IS FROM TOURISM. TOURISTS EAT OUT. [LAUGHS] WE ALSO
HAVE CONFERENCES. CONFERENCES EAT OUT. SO WHAT HOTELS HAVE IS
THESE THINGS, YOU KNOW — [ KNOCKING SOUNDS ] [ SILENCE ] OKAY? HOW DOES THE
TABLECLOTH GET DAMAGED? [ INAUDIBLE RESPONSE ] IF YOU SPILL SOMETHING ON IT. HOW ELSE? [ INAUDIBLE COMMENT ] HMM?>>THEY TEAR.>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: THEY CAN GET TORN. HISTORICALLY THE BIG
ONE WAS CIGARETTES. THEY’D GET BURNED. OKAY; SO I THOUGHT ALL — EVERYTHING THAT EVERYBODY
SAID WAS TRUE. I THOUGHT THAT’S HOW THAT
THESE WERE GETTING DAMAGED. TABLECLOTHS AND THE TABLECLOTH
INDUSTRY — FROM WHAT — FROM THE RESEARCH THAT
I’VE DONE, THEY ARE MADE OUT OF TWO FABRICS,
POLYESTER AND COTTON. COTTON IS ABSORBENT, SOME OF YOU
MAY KNOW THAT; POLYESTER IS NOT. SO THE WAY THAT THESE
GET DAMAGED IS FOR ANY — ANYBODY HERE WORKING
IN A RESTAURANT? SO WHAT DO YOU DO AT THE END
OF THE NIGHT WHEN THINGS NEED TO GET MESSED UP —
WHEN THERE’S A MESS AND YOU NEED TO CLEAN IT UP? [ INAUDIBLE RESPONSE ] YOU USE A TABLECLOTH; BECAUSE
MOST OF THESE ARE RENTED. SO YOU’RE RENTING IT,
YOU’RE BORROWING IT, YOU CLEAN UP WITH IT, YOU PUT IT
BACK IN THE BAG AND YOU GO BACK. AND THOSE ARE THE STAINS
THAT DON’T COME OUT A LOT. BUT FOR THE GARMENT
INDUSTRY, THIS IS FLAT. THIS CAN BE CUT UP. THIS CAN BE MADE
INTO SOMETHING ELSE. IN THE CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO — I DON’T KNOW IF YOU HAVE
THIS HERE IN LONG BEACH, BUT CITY OF SAN FRANCISCO
NOW WHEN YOU GO AND YOU BUY SOMETHING,
IT’S 25 CENTS A BAG. DO YOU HAVE TO PAY
FOR YOUR BAGS HERE?>>YES.>>DR. CONSTANCE ULASEWICZ: YES? HOW MUCH IS IT A BAG?>>TEN CENTS.>>TEN CENTS.>>DR. CONSTANCE
ULASEWICZ: TEN CENTS A BAG? SO WHAT HAPPENED WAS
WE DECIDED, “WELL, WHAT IF WE MADE THE
BAGS OUT OF THIS?” SO THAT’S WHAT YOU’RE
SEEING HERE. THIS IS PEOPLE WHO ARE SF,
AND THAT’S RE SF [PHONETIC]. THIS IS ANOTHER EXAMPLE
OF A BAG HERE, WHICH IS WHAT OUR FASHION
NETWORK ASSOCIATION — I MAKE THESE BAGS FOR PEOPLE. I DON’T MAKE THEM, I WORK WITH A LOCAL CONTRACTOR,
THEY MAKE THEM. BUT THIS SAYS, “MADE
IN SAN FRANCISCO FROM DISCARDED TABLECLOTHS.” AND THEN WITH MY STUDENTS
WHAT I DID IS I SAID, “OKAY — ” THEY HAVE THE PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT CLASS, AND I THREW EVERYBODY
A TABLECLOTH. I HAVE 90 STUDENTS. AND THEY WERE LIKE HORRIFIED,
“WHAT THE HECK AM I GOING TO DO WITH THIS THING?” AND THIS IS WHAT
WENT DOWN THE RUNWAY. SO WE HAD PEOPLE MAKING
JACKETS, PEOPLE MAKING DRESSES, ALL KINDS OF THINGS OUT OF A
TABLECLOTH, TO THINK OF THIS AS NOT WASTE, NOT SOMETHING
THAT’S GOING TO GO TO LANDFILL. [ SILENCE ] CONSIDER THE POSSIBILITIES WITH ALL THE TEXTILE
PRODUCTS THAT ARE OUT THERE. SO I ASK YOU TO CONSIDER WHAT
I CALL “MY NEW TPMVS SYSTEM”, AND I ASK YOU PLEASE, DON’T HIDE
IT, DON’T DO THE SEE NO DAMAGE, HEAR NO DAMAGE, SPEAK NO DAMAGE. [ SILENCE ] RETHINK YOUR WASTE
AS A RESOURCE. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. [ APPLAUSE ] [ SILENCE ]


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