Trash To Track – Ep 5 – Gutting the Miata Interior

Trash To Track – Ep 5 – Gutting the Miata Interior


(car engine spluttering) (Eighties music) (video game car engine revving) (video game screech effect) (episode theme music) ♪ Retnik beats ♪ – We’re going to remove the door cards. The bottom half we’re going
to get rid of and replace. We’re also going to pull the seats out so that we can try to get the carpet and the center console off. That’s it. (dramatic fanfare music) (metal pinging) So what I’m doing behind there is just sneaking my hook tool in between the door card and the handle, to just grab the clip and
pull it towards the crank so you can release the clip from the window crank shaft, there. Always put the clip back on, so that you don’t lose
it until you’re ready to install the window crank. Trim pliers. These ones are tapered,
you can just sneak them in behind the panel and then,
as you apply pressure, it pops the clips, usually
without breaking them. (clips popping) (plastic rattling) There goes the speaker grill. There’s a handful of
screws that we’ll remove. We’re going to retain our upper doorskin and we’re just going to
replace the lower portion. Just the head of this screw was resting up against the edge of this speaker. Same with this screw. And this one’s actually,
somebody’s driven it right through the frame
of the speaker itself. Not sure if these
speakers were an upgrade. (episode theme music) ♪ Retnik beats ♪ (wire clicking) So that’s just a wire for
the parking break indicator in the dash when the break is engaged, but it runs on the top side of the carpet, so to avoid having to cut
this section of the carpet I’m going to disconnect that wire. (tool ratchet) (tool ratchet) So we watched a couple of YouTube videos on how to pull the
tombstone and it looks like the easiest way to get the vents out is just with a shoelace. And then I have a hook tool that I used to get the window cranks off, that I’ll fish the shoelace back out with. So we’ll feed this shoelace through. Pull it back out the
other side with the hook and then just pull and the
vent comes out really easy. (vent popping out) Yeah, not too bad. There should be one screw
behind each of the vents. And there’s one wire harness
connector for the headlight and the hazard switch on the back. (screws rattling) There’s one. (metal scraping) Huh. (metal clattering) So there’s two wiring harness connectors. One of them is going to
be for your speakers, the other one is going to be
for the power, ground and memory for the stereo itself. The next is going to be your antenna wire. If you reach in, this is a coax cable, so it’ll just pull apart and then the last step, there’s a ground wire that attaches to the back
with one more Phillips screw. (metal scraping) Put the Phillips screw back
in so that we don’t lose it. And that’s how you pull a stock stereo. (upbeat music) We got started on taking the
interior apart last time. We’re back working on that and
we’re going to get the dash out, but we decided to get an
early start this morning. It’s minus five degrees Celsius out. We’re going to start the car and run it while we’re working on the inside, to try to keep a bit warm. (car engine revving) That is a cold, cold battery. (laughing) That’s why I parked it this way though, because the battery’s in the trunk and so if we run into an
issue with it not starting we can just jump start
it off one of our cars from the back, right? – [Camera Man] Why don’t
we talk about this? – When we did our shifter tower rebuild we notice that the floor
seat boot was just torn and pretty much garbage,
so we’re going to replace this floor seat with a
new one and this will stop those exhaust fumes, at least, from getting into the cockpit area. – [Camera Man] How quick is
it to do that modification? – Super quick. – [Camera Man] Hmm. – Yeah. Actually, why don’t we just
throw the new floor seat in right now while we’re waiting
for the car to warm up. – [Camera Man] So we don’t
end up, you know, dead. – Yeah, so the engine bay, the firewall, and the floor area is sealed. Like, there are very few
holes that the manufacturer puts through those areas,
for the reason to keep exhaust fumes out of the cabin area. The few holes that there
are in the firewall are generally plugged with a rubber boot and then wiring harness
will run through it and they try to keep that
as sealed as possible. Really the only hole that goes through the cockpit to the exterior of the car is this hole through
the transmission tunnel. We ordered this from Mazda. It was actually cheaper
to get it from the dealer than it was to get off of, like, Amazon. (electric screwdriver whirring) If I had known it was
in this bad of shape, when I ordered the transmission
shifter tower rebuild then I would’ve ordered
this at the same time. Yeah, check back in
episode two to watch us do the transmission shifter rebuild. I need a little bit of
petroleum jelly, lubricant, something on here to
get this to slide down. You only need a little
bit to stop the friction from applying too much
pressure on the rubber. (electric screwdriver whirring) The bracket, all it did was held the wire going to the parking break indicator. This wire just connects
to the parking break and then an icon comes on
the dash when it’s connected to remind you that your
parking break is on. It’s unneeded, so the
bracket won’t go back on, this wire is not going to get reinstalled. Oh damn, we have no cupholders inside. Deleted our cupholder. – [Camera Man] And how
much gas do we have? – We have negative gas right now. The gauge has never worked
since I’ve owned the car. Back in episode two when
we removed the soft top and a bunch of the components in the back, we talked about how
there was a big squirrel or rat’s nest back there and
behind the passenger seat there’s a bunch of
chewed wires and I think that’s why the fuel gauge doesn’t work. But when we’ve got the
interior completely gutted we’ll fix those wires and
make sure that everything for the fuel system back
there works properly. We’ll get the heater controls
out now and go from there. These ones are just Phillips. We will run into a point where
we need to turn the car off. So the heater controls
are actually attached to the heater box underneath
the dash by some cables and we’ll need to go under the dash to access those cables. (screws rattling) (plastic clicking) Each of the mounting bolts to the dash are covered by some little plastic cover. There’s actually a little slot
that can fit the screwdriver in from the end there, so
just pop all these off. There’s one on either
side of the center consol and then there’s two on
each side of the dash. Slide your flathead screwdriver in and they just pop right out. (plastic covers clicking) Okay, so now I’m going to
take the four bolts out that bold the center consol
to the transmission tunnel. Those are 14 mil. (tool rasping) And then there’s the
two 10 millimeter bolts on the outside of the dash. (electric screwdriver whirring) You need to release the hood release cable from the dash as well, so
there’s a nut on the back side of it that you just loosen off and then you can pull the
cable through the opening to release it from the dash there. Oh, the interior fuse box cover. – [Camera Man] So why did
the fuse cover come off? – It must’ve just been
sitting on top of this cable from the previous owner,
I’d imagine he popped it off and just never got it back on properly. (glove box clunking) I’m going to try to get
the glove box out without dumping this inside the car. The glove box is just held
in with a couple screws down on the bottom. Phillips head. (glove box rattling) Howdy haw! So there’s a physical
door inside the heater box that will move to block
off your heater core and give you cold air,
or open to allow the air to blow through your heater
core and give you heat. There’s also a blend door for direction, whether you want heat at
your feet, or the defrost, or coming out of the vents. There’s a cable up here. That cable runs to the heater controls on the front of the consol,
so we’ll disconnect it here and there’s another one to the left. There’s another cable right
down here that we have to undo, and so I believe there’s three in total. We’ll undo all three cables
and then we’ll pull them out still attached to the heater controls. So to disconnect the
cables, it just slides over top of the stud,
so all you have to do is pull the cable, like this, off the stud and then release it from the metal tab (tab clicking) like that. (tab clicking) And the last cable is
on this stud right here. Slide that off and disconnect the cable from the metal clip. And we also need to disconnect the wiring to the vanity light. It’s surrounded by a foam insulator. You don’t need to disconnect the foam, you just need to depress
the wiring harness connector on this side and then
pull it apart like that. So we’re going to disconnect
the door ajar light and then if you pan up just
a little bit right here, there’s a wiring harness connector
for the cigarette lighter and you want to disconnect both of those. There’s a brace that
the glove box bolts to and I’m going to try to get
that off right now also. So on the brace one of
the screws is a Phillips, but on the other side it looks
like an eight millimeter. (tool rasping) Next we’re going to take off
the steering column shroud. One screw on either side. (keys jangling) Couple screws on the bottom
of the steering column. Sorry, four screws total. One hidden way up there. Keep all those screws. (plastic scraping) Okay, so with those two screws removed you got to give a pretty good pull to get the hood to come off. It should just pull straight towards you. It’s held in with these
pretty strong metal tabs. So decent amount of force is needed to get it to come off. I also want to take off this bracket that mounts the center consol. It’s just held to the floor
with two Phillips screws. We’re just going to
eliminate this bracket. It only gave mounting
locations for the center consol that we’re not going to put back in. Next we’re going to take
the gauge cluster out. It’s held in with four screws. There is two wiring harness connectors, a white one and a black one
here that you need to remove, and then down there is
the speedometer cable that you need to unclip. Press the tab. Pull the connector out. If you push on this side it
should release the cable. There it goes. Just one more wiring harness
connector, right here. It’s got a little tab on it, just push and release. So we need to undo both of those and drop the steering column
almost all the way down. It bolts to the crossbar
built into the dash and so we’ll unbolt the steering column, we’ll undo the wiring
harnesses that we need to, and we’ll get the, the dash loose from under here. (tool ratcheting) There’s a floor plate that
bolts the steering column to the firewall, you need
to undo this nut here and same on the other side. (tool rasping) So once you’ve got the two
nuts on the floor undone your steering column
should be fairly loose. I left one bolt in
there, just finger tight. You actually want to undo
the floor plate first and then disconnect the
two bolts to the dash and just be careful that
you’re not underneath it because the steering column
will drop quite a bit. Like I said, it’ll pretty
much rest on the seat. So once you’ve got the last bolt out, the steering column, like
I said, will just hang, pretty much drop almost onto the seat. So there’s a factory zap
strap here that’s reusable, if you just lift up on
that tab the zap strap will come undone and it just
holds the wiring harness to the steering column. (plastic rattling) Pull that off and your steering column will drop the rest of the way. Once the steering column
is down it’s pretty easy to access this group of
wiring harnesses here. And this loom is actually the main harness to the dash components. So you don’t have to unplug
really anything in the dash, like the radio, the vanity
lights, or anything, because they’re wired
into this main harness, so once we pull the dash
out these connectors will come with and these, this side will stay in the car. So just disconnect all
the wiring harnesses in here related to the dash. (wiring harnesses clicking and rattling) So four connectors total. These will come out with the dash, these ones down here will stay in the car. So just slide your screwdriver
in wherever you can and pop up this cover. (plastic cover rattling) This bolt has very little clearance. Because there’s limited
space in between this bolt and the windshield, most
people just use a wrench to try to get on the head of the bolt, or the other end of the wrench. It’s actually pretty
awkward to get in there I have a short head quarter inch ratchet with a shallow snap on
10 millimeter socket that actually fits on there pretty good, enough for me to crack that loose (ratchet rasping) and probably get the
bolt most of the way out. What you don’t want to do
is loosen the bolt up enough that you can’t get your socket back off. It’ll jam up against your windshield. Ours is already broken, our
windshield, but you could (glass shattering)
crack yours easily by jamming the socket in there. So I’m just going to back this bolt out (ratchet rasping) a little bit, until I can
still get my socket off. Now I’ve got it loose
enough that I can get a couple fingers on it and loosen it the rest of the way out. And that’s your bolt. So I forgot the wiring harness to the blower motor control box. So there’s two wires to the fan there and then there’s another
wiring harness under here. (rattling) Yeah. (carpet rustling and scraping) – Oh! (laughter) – There we go, one complete carpet. So under here is a
bunch of carpet underlay that is good for sound deadening, but it really just retains the smell. – [Cartoon Character] That smell. A kind of smelly smell. A smelly smell that smells. Smelly. – It’ll be important for us
to get all that out and then clean up any other sound
deadening that’s under here. So we’ll use some heat
and a scraper of some sort to get all this up. We’re just going to use,
like, some putty knives and some cleaners, just whatever I kind of found around the house. We may go and get some
adhesive remover if we need it. The big one actually has a lot more flex, so you’ll do less damage to
the paint under the adhesive. The best thing to do
would be to use, like, a plastic scraper, but I
don’t have one of those, so we’ll use what we have. The underlay is garbage, we
don’t really care about it. We’re just going to rip it up. (upbeat music) (woman laughing) Before we ever started filming we found a massive rat’s nest underneath
the rear firewall here and the wires had been chewed
that go to the power antenna and you can see this cable
housing is all chewed up. A couple of the wires are chewed up and the antenna wire is actually
split in half right here. So we’re going to delete all the wiring and we’re going to
delete the power antenna. So for right now we’ll
pop up all the clips that hold the antenna wire on the car. (tool scraping on metal) We’re just going to delete
this whole broken antenna wire. Carpet is completely deleted. We cleaned up all the
underlay and any little bits of adhesive stuck to the floor. Really happy with how this
turned out just as is. I thought there was going to
be a lot more rust or debris on the floor from the soft top previously leaking or something. We’ll still probably grab a
can of gloss white spray paint and just clean up all
these spots that are gray and just primer from the
factory and make this all just one white color. We got the transmission tunnel
shifter floor plate installed which did a couple things. It cut down on the road
noise and it stopped the exhaust fumes from
coming up inside the car. We’ve got some more work to do on the dash and some of the components under here, so we’re going to leave
the car as is for now, until we get the rest of that work done and the dash is ready to be reinstalled. But for now this is the way the car sits. Give us a like and
subscribe to our channel. (episode theme music)


2 thoughts on “Trash To Track – Ep 5 – Gutting the Miata Interior

  1. I did this and now when I turn the key to acc the lights don’t come on and I’m sure everything is put back together so is something else wrong?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *